Literary Tours in The Highlands and Islands of ScotlandHolmes, Daniel Turner
History
Literary Tours in The Highlands and Islands of Scotland
Holmes, Daniel Turner
Scottish literature -- History and criticism
Now, children in the Highlands are rather fond of sitting and even
playing on the roof: thatch is less cruel on bare feet than iron is.
HORRORS OF THE MINCH.
I have alluded to the distresses of winter voyaging to Skye. But there
are other routes worse, notably that from Tarbert in Harris to
Lochmaddy, which is a perfect Tartar of a trip. When the wind is high
and contrary, the traveller (if he can stay on deck and maintain an
interest in the scenery), beholds a sight of extreme grandeur. The waves
are to be seen all along the Harris coast leaping up to a terrific
extent with an unbroken line of foam extending for miles. So much does
the boat romp and dance, however, that most passengers forsake the deck
and retire inelegantly below. When a man lies in a stuffy cabin wishing
himself wedged into it to prevent the perpetual rolling to this side and
to that, and hearing the desperate thud of the Minch flinging itself
against the port-hole, a series of vivid panoramic pictures pass before
his mental eye. Home appears so lovely and reposeful: faces of friends
on shore arise, transfigured by the glow of love: the squeamishness and
retching he endures seem to the sufferer a special and direct judgment
on him for impiously endeavouring to find pleasure otherwise than by the
practice of the domestic virtues. Disquieting memories of bursting
boilers surge up to the surface of the mind, and old catches like the
weird ballad of Sir Patrick Spens lilt themselves to the clank of the
staggering ship's machinery--
"The anchor's brak and the tapmast lap,
It was sic a deadly storm,
And the waves dashed into the gude ship's side
Till a' her planks were torn."
The romance of the sea is apt to vanish as you look out upon a
wilderness of foaming water, tossing the boat like an insignificant toy,
drenching the bulwarks and vehemently smiting everything in its riotous
anger. Neptune seems a mere blind force without reverence or mercy for
the works of man. It is good for a boy of romantic disposition to cross
to the Long Island in a gale: it will effectually cure him of all desire
to take up the profession of pirate. What a sad moment for such a youth
when he sees his breakfast where it shouldn't be, and reflects that he
has not the staying power of Sir Ralph the Rover!
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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