As carriages and hearses are rare objects in Ponce, the coffin is sometimes carried on the shoulders of men. The procession is often composed of those attracted by curiosity, rather than the friends and relatives of the deceased. The people of Ponce are wide-awake, progressive and anxious to better their condition. They are also more hospitable and friendly than in other towns. It was here that the American army under General Miles proceeded in 1898, after landing at Guanica. The troops received a hearty welcome from the inhabitants. The people were glad to be relieved from Spanish rule, and wished to have their land annexed to the United States. A proclamation of welcome was issued to the soldiers, feasts were spread, and the stars and stripes floated from many house tops. THE MILITARY ROAD. Now we are ready to return to San Juan, going northward over the great military road, one of the finest highways in the world. It is macadamized, is fifty feet wide, ninety-seven miles in length, and smooth and even as a boulevard. It crosses mountains which reach a height of almost four thousand feet. It winds in and out among the coffee-covered hills, giving us a fine view of the green mountains and the deep valleys below. Looking down we see patches of sugar cane and tobacco; groves of bananas, cocoanut, and palm trees; hedges of strange growth; unknown plants and vines, and fern-covered rocks. Here and there is a rude cabin surrounded by bread-fruit and banana trees. We pass picturesque little towns with blue and yellow houses and quaint churches, their spires towering upward. In fifteen hours we would reach San Juan, but we delay our journey in order to obtain a closer view of the scenery and of the homes of the people. Many happy hours we spend on the plantations in the country. During these country rides and visits we get our knowledge of the animal and plant life of the island. Let us stop, then, for a few days, at a country home by the seashore. A COUNTRY HOME. The residence of this home we find to be of good size and divided into rooms by partitions that reach only half way up to the roof. This is to give a free circulation of air. The house is thatched with palm leaves, and has a wide veranda running around it. Mosquito curtains are used to keep out the swarms of sand flies and mosquitoes that make the night uncomfortable. All doors and windows are closed before sunset and not opened until the moon is well up. Then large fires are lighted around the house to drive the mosquitoes away. This is for our benefit, for the natives do not mind these insects as much as we do. But we have other midnight visitors. Large fireflies fly in at the open windows and light up the room with their fairy lamps. And such wonderful fireflies, over an inch long!