The state of Locke's health had long rendered it desirable that he
should reside in a warmer climate, and his release from official duties
now removed any obstacle that there might formerly have been to his
absence from England. The place which he selected for his retirement
was Montpellier, at that time the most usual place of resort for
invalids who were able to leave their own country. He left London about
the middle of November, 1675, with one if not more companions, and,
after experiencing the ordinary inconveniences of travel in those days
of slow locomotion and poor inns, arrived at Paris on Nov. 24, and at
Lyons on Dec. 11. At Lyons, he remarks of the library at the Jesuits'
College that it "is the best that ever I saw, except Oxford, being one
very high oblong square, with a gallery round, to come at the books."
As before, in the North of Germany, so now in the South of France,
he is a diligent observer of everything of interest, whether in the
way of customs, occupations, or buildings, that falls in his way. He
reached Montpellier on Christmas Day, and, except when making short
excursions in the neighbourhood, resided there continuously till the
early spring of 1677, a period of fourteen months. At Montpellier I
have not been able to find any trace of him, either in the library
or elsewhere, but his journal shows that he was much interested in
the trade and products of the country, as well as in the objects
which usually excite the curiosity of travellers. At Shaftesbury's
instigation he wrote a little treatise, entitled, "Observations upon
the Growth and Culture of Vines and Olives, the Production of Silk,
and the Preservation of Fruits." It is curious that this small tract
was never published till 1766. It enumerates no less than forty-one
varieties of grapes, and thirteen varieties of olives, which were
grown in the neighbourhood of Montpellier. The ceremonial and doings
of the States of Languedoc attracted Locke's attention, but he does
not seem to have been present at their deliberations. He witnessed,
however, their devotions at the Church of Notre Dame, and remarks that
the Cardinal Archbishop of Narbonne, who took part in the offices,
kept "talking every now and then, and laughing with the bishops next
him." The increasing incidence of the taxation on the lower and middle
orders, and the growing poverty of the people, were topics which could
hardly fail to arrest the attention of any intelligent traveller at
that time. "The rent of lands in France is fallen one half in these
few years, by reason of the poverty of the people. Merchants and
handicraftsmen pay near half their gains." Among the more interesting
entries in his journal are the following:--March 18 (N.S.). "Monsieur
Rennaie, a gentleman of the town, in whose house Sir J. Rushworth lay,
about four years ago, sacrificed a child to the devil--a child of a
servant of his own--upon a design to get the devil to be his friend
and help him to get some money.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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