Lodges in the WildernessScully, W. C. (William Charles)
History
Lodges in the Wilderness
Scully, W. C. (William Charles)
Natural history -- South Africa; South Africa -- Description and travel
The tract is an extensive one, probably upwards of 50,000 square miles
lie within its limits. It is bounded on the north by the Gariep or
Orange River--but as that flows and eddies at the bottom of a tremendous
gorge which is cut off from the plains by a lofty, stark range of
mountains,--coal-black in colour for their greater extent and glowing
hot throughout the long, cloudless day, the traveller seldom sees it.
The western boundary is the Atlantic Ocean; the eastern an imaginary
line drawn approximately south from the Great Aughrabies Falls to the
Kat Kop Range. If we bisect this line with another drawn due east from
the coast to the Lange Berg, we shall get a sufficiently recognisable
boundary on the south. From the tract so defined must be deducted the
small area surrounding the Copper Mines, and a narrow strip of mountain
land running parallel with, and about sixty miles from the coast. This
strip is sparsely inhabited by European farmers.
The occasional traversing of this vast tract lay within the scope of my
official duties. My invariable travelling companion was Field Cornet
Andries Esterhuizen (of whom more anon) and a small retinue of police,
drivers, and after-riders. We never escaped hardship; the sun scorched
fiercely and the sand over which we tramped was often hot enough to cook
an egg in. Water, excepting the supply we carried with us, was as a
rule unobtainable; consequently we had to eschew washing completely. We
often had to travel by night so as to spare the oxen, and as the
water-casks usually almost filled the wagon, we then had to tramp,
vainly longing for sleep, through long, weary hours, from sunset to
sunrise. And after the sun had arisen the heat, as a rule, made sleep
impossible.
It was to the more inaccessible--and therefore comparatively inviolate--
expanses of this wilderness that I was always tempted to penetrate.
Therein were to be found a scanty flora and a fauna--each unusual and
distinctive,--composed of hardy organisms, which an apprenticeship from
days unthinkably ancient had habituated to their most difficult
conditions of existence. If, somewhere near the margin of the great
central plain, we happened to cross the track of a vagrant thunderstorm,
we would see myriads of delicately-petalled blossoms miraculously
surviving, like the Faithful Rulers of Babylon in the Fiery Furnace. On
the flank of some flaming sand-dune we would find the tulip-like blooms
of the Gethyllis flourishing in leafless splendour. Their corollas were
of crystalline white splashed with vivid crimson; deep in each goblet
lay the clustered anthers,--a convoluted mass of glowing gold. Is this
flower a grail, bearing beauty too ineffable to die, through an arid
aeon from one cycle of fertility to another?
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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