Lodges in the WildernessScully, W. C. (William Charles)
History
Lodges in the Wilderness
Scully, W. C. (William Charles)
Natural history -- South Africa; South Africa -- Description and travel
Gamoep, where the last water was to be found, lay on the actual edge of
the level desert some distance to the south-east of Silverfontein. To
reach it involved a long day's trek, for the route was through soft
sand. At Gamoep was a permanent spring,--the water of which, although
fit for animals, was not quite suitable for human consumption.
Alongside the pool which the spring feeds we decided to rest for
twenty-four hours, for the oxen had a heavy strain to undergo and we
felt it necessary to cover as much as possible of the first part of our
journey during the cool hours of night.
We slept soundly after our long tramp. Next morning, as the sun began
to soar, sand-grouse in flocks of almost incredible numbers came
sweeping in from the desert. The wearied birds alighted a few hundred
yards from the pool, and there rested for about ten minutes. Then they
arose, swooped down to the edge of the pool for a hurried sip, and sped
back whence they came. We shot sufficient of these for our immediate
needs.
Late in the afternoon, when the sting had gone out of the sunshine, we
drove the oxen to the pool and let them drink their fill. We had
brought two horses--my old hunting-horse, "Prince," and another
"Swaitland," renamed "Bucephalus," for Hendrick, my after-rider. But
the horses had to remain for the present at Gamoep, in charge of
Danster, one of our Hottentots. Piet Noona, another Hottentot, and his
nephew,--a lad of about twelve years of age, were also left behind for
the purpose of taking charge of the oxen when they returned, maddened
with thirst, after being released from the yoke at the camping-place
under Bantom Berg and the Great Dune, which was our objective.
Shortly before sundown we inspanned and made a start, shaping our course
north-east. Soon we had crossed the last rocky ridge,--the boundary
separating the hilly country from the plains. The latter were covered
with the shock-bearing tussocks of "toa,"--waving plumes at that time
bleached to a light-yellow by the ardours of the summer sun. We passed
the head of the Kanxas Gorge,--a miniature canyon whose rocky,
perpendicular sides contained caves which had been until a comparatively
recent date occupied by Bushmen. The walls of these caves shew records
of their former inhabitants in the form of black-pigmented script. This
consists mainly of groups of short, parallel lines crossed at various
angles by lines similar. But neither here nor in any of the haunts of
the now-vanished Bushmen I have visited in the north-western areas of
the Cape Province, have I seen paintings of men and animals such as are
to be found in other parts of South Africa. A spring had existed at
Kanxas within the memory of living Trek-Boers. Of this no vestige then
remained. Herein lies an additional item of evidence pointing to the
ominous conclusion that South Africa is slowly but surely drying up.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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