Lodges in the WildernessScully, W. C. (William Charles)
History
Lodges in the Wilderness
Scully, W. C. (William Charles)
Natural history -- South Africa; South Africa -- Description and travel
The Richtersveld, according to report, was extremely mountainous and was
said to contain only some two hundred people of Koranna-Bushman and
Hottentot descent. So remote and isolated was this region that its
dwellers were tacitly permitted to govern themselves. They had a "raad"
or council of elders which, under presidency of the missionary, settled
all disputes and generally administered justice,--informal, but none the
less just on that account. The language spoken by the Richtersvelders
is an almost extinct Hottentot dialect, full of clicks, gutterals and
phonetic excursions impossible to the average European tongue. Only a
few of the people had even the merest smattering of Dutch.
That excursion involved more difficulties than any other I had
undertaken. There was, it is true, not more than a bare hundred miles
of desert to cross, but the only definite information we had been able
to gain as to the route was to the effect that it led through a tract
practically waterless and extremely difficult to traverse. Moreover, it
was reported to be absolutely uninhabited. One thing was quite clear,--
we should have to travel with oxen; horses would have been useless under
the conditions as described.
Andries arrived bringing--not the comfortable, tilted, spring-wagon,--
but the strong, heavy, tentless "buck" wagon, with a team of sixteen
picked oxen. He seemed uneasy as to our prospects, for the coast desert
had a bad reputation and we were about to plunge into a wilderness with
the conditions of which he was unfamiliar. The map was produced, but
Andries rather despises maps. This one shewed little beyond "gaps" and
"unhabitable downs." But it indicated, roughly, our obvious route. We
would travel alongside the copper-trolley-line as far as Anenous, which
lay at the foot of the mountain range and thus on the inner margin of
the coast desert,--which is little, if at all, above the level of the
sea. From Anenous we had to trend to the north-west, past Tarabies,
Lekkersing and the northern trigonometrical beacon. Thence via Hell
Gate to Kuboos, where the wagon would have to remain. Any further
journeyings would apparently have to be undertaken on foot. Possibly,
however, we might be able to obtain pack-oxen.
Judging by the map, the course looked obvious and easy, but we knew that
the surface of the coast desert was composed of deep, soft sand, into
which the wheels of the heavy wagon would sink deeply, and that through
the sandy tract the northern range of mountains sent out spines or dykes
of rock, many miles in length. These, we were told, often took the form
of abrupt ridges extremely difficult to negotiate with any vehicle, no
matter how strongly built.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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