Lodges in the WildernessScully, W. C. (William Charles)
History
Lodges in the Wilderness
Scully, W. C. (William Charles)
Natural history -- South Africa; South Africa -- Description and travel
The officials of the Cape Copper Company at Anenous (which was the
jumping-off place for our hundred-mile sand-swim) knew nothing of the
country two miles on either side of the trolley-line. All they were
definite about was that no one had ever been known to arrive at Anenous
from the northward or north-westward.
Such Hottentots as we were able to consult all declared that it was only
under very exceptional circumstances that water was to be found between
the trolley-line and the Orange River.
Andries' feelings must have resembled those of a seaman ordered to
navigate his ship through an uncharted archipelago. Owing to our
absolute lack of local knowledge we should be constrained to do all our
travelling by day, and this meant severe suffering for the cattle. In
the old days of prospecting for copper ore, all communication with the
Richtersveld was effected by a route along the actual sea-shore from
Port Nolloth to the Orange River's mouth and thence inland along the
river bank to the sickle-bend.
We started from Anenous very early in the morning. On the previous day
we had kept the oxen without water, so that almost to the moment of
commencing the journey they might be very thirsty, and accordingly drink
their fill. We at once plunged into the waste of sand; this proved to
be so heavy that we were unable to travel at a higher rate than two
miles an hour. The country was quite different from the Bushmanland
plains; there was no "toa," but succulent plants of great variety were
plentiful. One Mesembryanthemum had the dimensions of a large cabbage.
In spite of its succulence the oxen would not eat of this vegetation.
The climate, also, was different from that of the Bushmanland plains;
the heat was not so great, but what there was of it proved exhausting.
A haze brooded over the earth; through it the north-western mountain
range loomed gigantic and mysterious. There were no roads,--unless a
wide-meshed network of half-obliterated tracks--probably old
game-paths--could be described as such. One strange peculiarity of the
coastal desert is the extraordinary persistence of spoor and other
markings on the surface of the ground. Near Walfish Bay the clear
tracks of elephants may still be seen,--and there has not been an
elephant in the vicinity for upwards of half a century.
After desperate efforts we reached Kuboos on the afternoon of the fourth
day. I never thought it possible that a wagon could travel where ours
did. We ploughed through calamitous expanses of sand, we floundered
through dusty dongas. We bumped and clattered over high, steep-sided
ramparts of rock. But the skill of Andries as a driver, the endurance
of the oxen and the strength of the wagon brought us safely through.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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