London (England) -- History; London (England) -- Social life and customs
One who has looked at Mrs. Glasse's wonderful book on cookery, and
reflects upon the variety and wealth of dishes which then graced the
board, would not lightly approach the subject of food. Yet there are a
few _plats_, favorites with the people, which may be noticed. Sage tea,
for instance, with bread-and-butter, is no longer taken for breakfast;
and some of the following dishes have disappeared: Hasty pudding, made
of flour and water boiled together, to which dabs of butter and
spoonfuls of brown sugar were added when it was poured out of the
pot--no one now ever sees sugar quite so brown as that which the West
Indies used to send over a hundred and fifty years ago. Onion pottage
has assumed the more complex form of soup. A bean tansy was once
universally beloved; there were two forms of it; in the first, after
bruising your beans, you put them in a dish with pepper, salt, cloves,
mace, the yolks of six eggs, a quarter of a pound of butter, and some
slices of bacon. This you baked. The other form was when you mixed
beans, biscuits, sugar, sack, cream, and baked all in a dish with
garnish of candied orange-peel. There were drinks in endless variety,
such as purl, Old Pharaoh, knock-down, humtie-dumtie, stipple
shouldrée--names in this degenerate age, and nothing more. We can hardly
understand, either, the various possets, punch in its hundred and fifty
branches, raw shrub--which still stands in old-fashioned bars--and the
various cups, porter cup, cider cup, port-wine cup, egg flip, rum-booze,
and the rest.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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