at home. The best way is to begin by giving up everything, by frankly
saying to yourself that you will not be bothered, that man's days of
travel are full of trouble, and that you are going to get what little
joy you can out of them as you go along. Then, perhaps, on some errand
of quite ignoble purport, you will be seized with the knowledge that
in the very spot where you stand one of the most significant things
in history happened. It will be quite enough for you, as you inhale
a breath of the London mixture of smoke, dust, and fog, that it is
something like the air which Shakespeare and Milton breathed when
they were meditating the works which have given so many international
after-dinner orators the assurance of a bond of amity in our common
language. Once, in driving through one of the dullest streets
imaginable, I chanced to look out of the side-window of my hansom, and
saw on a flying house-wall a tablet reading: “Here lived John Dryden,”
and though Dryden is a poet to move one to tenderness as little as may
be, the tears came into my eyes.
It is but one of a thousand names, great in some sort or other, which
make sojourn in London impossible, if one takes them to heart as an
obligation to consciousness of her constant and instant claim. They show
you Johnson's house in Bolt Court, but it only avails to vex you with
the thought of the many and many houses of better and greater men which
they will never show you. As for the scenes of events in fiction you
have a plain duty to shun them, for in a city where the great facts
of the past are written so deep upon the walls and pavement one over
another, it is folly which can be forgiven only to the vacancy of youth
to go looking for the places where this imaginary thing happened. Yet
this claim of folly has been recognized, and if you wish to indulge
it, you can do so at little trouble. Where the real localities are not
available they have fictitious ones, and they show you an Old Curiosity
Shop, for instance, which serves every purpose of having been the home
of Little Nell. There are at least three Cock Taverns, and several
Mitres, all genuine; and so on. Forty odd years ago I myself, on first
arriving in London, lodged at the Golden Cross, because it was there
that David Copperfield stopped; and I was insensately pleased the other
day that there was still a hotel of that name at the old stand. Whether
it was the old inn, I did not challenge the ghost within me to say. I
doubt if you now dine there “off the joint” in the “coffee-room”; more
probably you have a _table d'hôte_ meal served you “at separate tables,”
by a German lad just beginning to ignore English. The shambling elderly
waiter who was part of the furniture in 1861 is very likely dead; and
for the credit of our country I hope that the recreant American whom I
heard telling an Englishman there in those disheartening days, of our
civic corruptions, may have also passed away. He said that he himself
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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