Probably the First Murderer lunched there, four hundred years ago, “when
he had done as I did now”; but, in the mean time, Henry VIII. had given
Crosby Place to a rich Italian merchant, one Anthony Bonvice; later,
ambassadors had been received in it; the first Earl of Northampton
had enlarged it, and dwelt in it as lord mayor; in 1638 the East
India Company had owned it, and later yet, in 1673, it was used for a
Presbyterian meeting-house; but in 1836 it was restored to its ancient
form and function. I do not know how long it has been an eating-house,
but I hope it may long remain so, for the sensation and refreshment of
Americans who love a simple and good refection in a mediaeval setting,
at a cost so moderate that they must ever afterwards blush for it.
You penetrate to its innermost perpendicularity through a passage
that enclosed a “quick-lunch” counter, and climb from a most noble
banquet-hall crammed with hundreds of mercantile gentlemen “feeding like
one” at innumerable little tables, to a gallery where the musicians
must have sat of old. There it was that Phyllis found and neat-handedly
served my friend and me, gently experiencing a certain difficulty in our
combined addition, but mastering the arithmetical problem presently, and
taking our tip with an air of surprise which it never created in any of
the English-learning Swiss, French, or Italian Strephons who elsewhere
ministered to us.
The waitresses at Crosby Place were of a girlish dignity which never
expected and was never visibly offered the familiar pleasantries which
are the portion of that strange, sad, English creation, the barmaid. In
tens of thousands of London public-houses she stands with her hand on
beer-pumps, and exchanges jocose banalities with persons beyond the
counter in whose dim regard she must show a mere blur of hardened
loveliness against her background of bottles and decanters; but the
waitress at Crosby Place is of an ideal of behavior as fine as that of
any Phyllis in a White Mountain hotel; and I thought it to the honor of
the lunchers that they seemed all to know it. The gentle influence
of her presence had spread to a restaurant in the neighborhood where,
another day, in trying for Crosby Place, I was misled by the mediaeval
aspect of the entrance, and where I found waitresses again instead
of waiters. But nowhere else do I remember them, always excepting the
manifold tea-houses of the metropolis, and those repeated A. B. C.
cold-lunch places of the Aerated Bread Company, where a chill has
apparently been imparted to their bearing by the temperature of the food
they serve. It is very wholesome, however, and it may be rather that a
New England severity in them is the effect of the impersonal relation of
served and server which no gratuity humanizes.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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