London (England) -- Description and travel; London (England) -- History -- 1800-1950
The Calves’ Head Club for a time had its headquarters at The Cock, an
inn long since demolished, in Suffolk Street, Pall Mall. It was one of
the many inns at which Pepys was ’mighty merry.’ The club is said to
have been originated by Milton and other partisans of the Commonwealth;
and the author of the ’Secret History of the Calves’ Head Club’—probably
Ned Ward—gives an account of the melodramatic and diabolical ceremonies
observed at their banquets. An axe was hung up in their club-room as a
sacred symbol—the destroyer of the tyrant. But the eating and drinking,
for which, as Addison says, clubs were instituted, were not neglected by
the members. At the banquet held in 1710 there was spent on bread,
beer, and ale the sum of £2 10s.; on fifty calves’ heads, £5 5s.; on
bacon, £1 10s.; on six chickens and two capons, £1; on three joints of
veal, 18s.; on butter and flour, 15s.; on oranges, lemons, vinegar, and
spices, £1; on oysters and sausages, 15s.; on the use of pewter and
linen, £1; and on various other items additional sums, bringing the
total up to £18 6s. No wine, it will be noticed, is included in the
above bill, but there is no doubt a considerable amount for this item
should be added to it.
Early in the last century street clubs became common in various parts of
London, that is to say, clubs in which the inhabitants of one or two
streets met every night to discuss the affairs of the neighbourhood.
Out of these, we suppose, arose the Mug House Club, in Long Acre, which
soon found imitators in other parts of London. The members—gentlemen,
lawyers, and tradesmen—met in a large room. A gentleman nearly ninety
years of age was their president. A harp played at the lower end of the
room, and now and then a member rose and treated the company to a song.
Nothing was drunk but ale, and every gentleman had his own mug, which he
chalked on the table as it was brought in.
In 1770 some young gentlemen, on returning from the grand tour it was
then customary to make after leaving college—a tour which was supposed
to lick the young cubs into shape and refine their manners, of course an
illusion, since, whilst abroad, they associated chiefly with the scum of
English society then swarming on the Continent—some of these young
gentlemen, on their return, established in St. James’s Street the Savoir
Vivre Club, where they held periodical dinners, of which macaroni was a
standing dish. This club was the nursery of the Macaronis, a phalanx of
mild Hyde Park beaux, who were distinguished for nothing but the
ridiculous dress they assumed. An unfinished copy of verses found among
Sheridan’s papers, and which Thomas Moore considered as the foundation
of certain lines in the ’School for Scandal,’ delineates the Macaronis
in a few masterly strokes:
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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