London (England) -- Description and travel; London (England) -- History -- 1800-1950
’Strangers are astounded,’ continues our author, ’at the silence
prevailing among the inhabitants of London. But how could a million and
a half of people live together without silence? The noise of men,
horses, and carriages between the Strand and the Exchange is so great
that it is said that in winter there are two degrees of difference in
the thermometers of the City and of the West End. I have not verified
it,’ our author is candid enough to admit, ’but considering the great
number of chimneys in the Strand, it is probable enough. From Chering
[_sic_] Cross to the Exchange is the cyclopedia of the world. Anarchy
seems to prevail, but it is only apparent. The rules which Gray gives
(in his "Trivia; or, the Art of Walking the Streets of London") seem to
me unnecessary.’
Signor Pecchio pretty well describes the movements of ’City men’:
’The great monster of the capital,’ he says, ’similar to a huge giant,
waking up, begins by giving signs of life at its extremities. The
movement begins at the circumference, gradually extending to the centre,
until about ten o’clock the uproar begins, increasing till four o’clock,
which is the hour for going on ’Change. The population seems to follow
the law of the tides. Up to that hour the tide rises from the periphery
to the Exchange. At half-past four, when the Exchange closes, the ebb
sets in, and currents of men, horses, and carriages flow from the
Exchange to the periphery.’
Like all foreigners, he has something to say about the dulness of an
English Sunday. ’This country, all in motion, all alive on other days
of the week,’ he observes, ’seems struck with an attack of apoplexy on
the Lord’s day.’ Foreigners pass the day at Greenwich or Richmond,
where ’they pay dearly for a dinner, seasoned with the bows of a waiter
in silk stockings and brown livery, just like the dress of a Turin
lawyer.’ But if you want to see how John Bull spends the day, it is not
in Hyde Park or Kensington Gardens you must look for him. ’If you want
to see that marvellous personage who is the wonder and laughing-stock of
all Europe, who clothes all the world, wins battles on land and sea
without much boasting, who works like three and drinks like six, who is
the pawnbroker and usurer of all Kings and all Republics, whilst he is
bankrupt at home, and sometimes, like Midas, dies of hunger in the midst
of gold, you must look for him elsewhere. In winter you must descend
into underground cellars. There, around a blazing fire, you will behold
the English workman, well dressed and shod, smoking, drinking, and
reading.... For this class of readers special Sunday newspapers are
published.... It is in these taverns, and amidst the smoke of tobacco
and the froth of their beer, the first condition of public opinion is
born and formed. It is there the conduct of every citizen is discussed
and appraised; there starts the road which leads to the Capitol or the
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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