London (England) -- Description and travel; London (England) -- History -- 1800-1950
Tarpeian rock; there praise or blame is awarded to a Burdett issuing
triumphantly from the Tower, or to a Castlereagh descending amidst
curses to the tomb.... There are no rows in these taverns ... more
decency of conduct is observed in them than in our [Italian] churches.
When full of spirit and beer the customers, instead of fighting, fall
down on the pavement like dead men.’
After having so carefully observed the conduct of the British workman,
our Italian friend watches him in the suburban tea-garden, which he
visits with his family to take tea in the afternoon, or drink his
nut-brown ale. ’One of the handsomest,’ he says, ’is Cumberland
Gardens,[#] close to Vauxhall ... there he sits smoking long pipes of
the whitest clay, which the landlord supplies, filled with tobacco, at
one penny each. Between his puffs of smoke he occasionally sends forth a
truncated phrase, such as we read in "Tristram Sandi" [_sic_] were
uttered by Trion and the captain. It being Sunday, which admits of no
amusement, no music or song is heard.’ Pretty much as it is at the
present day!
[#] In the early part of 1825, therefore shortly after our author wrote,
the tavern was burnt to the ground, and the site taken possession of by
the South London Waterworks.
Having heard what both Frenchmen and an Italian had to say about London,
let us listen to what a German authoress has to tell us on the subject.
Johanna Schopenhauer, in her ’Travels through England and Scotland’
(third edition, 1826), says: ’The splendid shops, which offer the finest
sights, are situate chiefly between the working City and the more
aristocratic, enjoying Westminster,’ a statement which, as every
Londoner knows, is only partially correct. ’The English custom of always
making way to the right greatly facilitates walking, so that there is no
pushing or running against anyone.’ Did our author ever take a walk in
Cheapside or Fleet Street? ’Even Italians probably do not fear rain so
much as a Londoner; to catch a wetting seems to them the most terrible
misfortune; on the first falling of a few drops everyone not provided
with an umbrella hastens to take refuge in a coach.’ How well the lady
has studied the habits of Londoners! What will they say to this?
’The police exercise a strict control over hackney-coaches. Woe to the
driver who ventures to over-charge!’ And again: ’You may safely enter,
carrying with you untold wealth, a coach at any time of the night, as
long as someone at the house whence you start takes the number of the
coach, and lets the driver see that it is taken.’
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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