India -- History -- British occupation, 1765-1947 -- Biography; Lawrence, John Laird Mair, 1811-1879
Arrived at Delhi, in 1830, he felt that happy revulsion of thought and
sentiment which is well known to many who have passed through similar
circumstances. He had not only landed on a strange and distant shore,
but had advanced many hundred miles into the interior of the country. He
had thus, so to speak, cut his cables and cast away home-sickness,
treasuring the memory of the former existence in the sunniest corner of
his heart, but bracing and buckling himself to the work of the new
existence. This work of his, too, was varied and intensely human in its
interests. Its nature was such as made him anxious to learn, and yet the
learning was extraordinarily hard at first. His dormant energies were
thus awakened, as he dived deep into the affairs of the Indian people,
listened to their petitions, guarded their rights, collected the taxes,
watched the criminal classes, traced out crime, regulated the police.
The work was in part sedentary, but it also afforded him healthy
exercise on foot and on horseback, as he helped in supervising the
streets, the drains, the roads, and the municipal institutions of all
sorts in a great city and its neighbourhood.
He was, moreover, impressed deeply by imperial Delhi itself as one of
the most noteworthy cities in the world, and as
“The lone mother of dead empires.”
The matchless palace of the Great Mogul overhanging the river Jumna, the
hall of audience, the white marble mosque, a veritable pearl of
architecture, the great city mosque, probably the finest place of
worship ever raised by Moslem hands, the ruins outside the walls of
several capitals belonging to extinct dynasties, doubtless affected his
imagination in some degree. But he was too much pre-occupied by work to
regard these things as they would be regarded by artists or
antiquarians. Nevertheless his native keenness of observation served him
well even here, for he would describe the structural merits of these
noble piles, the clean cutting of the red-sandstone and the welding
together of the massive masonry. He was more likely to observe fully the
geographical situation, which gave commercial and political importance
to the city in many ages, and preserved it as a capital throughout
several revolutions. In the intervals of practical business he must have
noticed the condition of the Great Mogul, whom the British Government
then maintained as a phantom sovereign in the palace. But he could not
have anticipated the position of fell activity into which this very _roi
fainéant_ was fated to be thrust some twenty-seven years later. It will
be seen hereafter that the local knowledge which he thus gained of
Delhi, served him in good stead during the most critical period of his
after-life.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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