_Avignon, May_ 20.--Jane finds our incognito more and more irksome. I
was looking forward to a real quiet holiday, where we could get away
from all fuss and worry, and all the impediments of rank and riches. I
wanted to pretend we were poor for a while. To send on the litters with
the oxen, the horses, and the baggage, and to ride on mules--as soon as
we had reached the South--but Jane would not hear of this. She said she
had had enough of poverty without playing at it now. This is of course
quite true, but I wish she wouldn't say such things before people. It
makes one so uncomfortable. Here she has insisted on our staying with
the Pope, which may put me in a very awkward position with regard to
several of our allies in Italy. He has been, however, most gracious.
Jane is very impulsive at times. She insisted on our making an
expedition to the Bridge here, by moonlight, and dancing on it. She
kicked off her shoes and danced barefooted; I asked her not to do this,
whereupon she said: "If the courtiers hadn't praised my ankles you would
never have married me and what's the use of having pretty ankles, if
nobody can see them!" I shall be glad when we get to Italy. I am
determined to preserve a strict incognito, once we are across the
frontier.
_Turin, June_ 10.--It has poured with rain every day since we crossed
the frontier, and Jane won't believe that it is ever fine in Italy. It
is very cold for the time of year, and the people here say that there
has not been such a summer for thirty years. Every time I mention the
blue sky of Italy Jane loses her temper. She spends all her time at the
goldsmiths' shops and at the weavers'--I am afraid she is extravagant:
and her taste in dress is not quite as restrained as I could wish. Of
course it doesn't matter here, but at home it would shock people. For
instance, last night she came down to supper dressed as a Turkish
Sultana in pink trousers and a scimitar, and without even a veil over
her face. When I remonstrated she said men did not understand these
things.
_Milan, June_ 15.--It is still raining. Jane refused to look at the
Cathedral and spends her whole time at the merchants' booths as usual.
To-day I broached the incognito question. I suggested our walking on
foot, or perhaps riding on mules, to Florence. Jane, to my great
surprise, said she would be delighted to do this, and asked when we were
to start. I said we had better start the day after to-morrow. I am
greatly relieved. She is really very sensible, if a little impulsive at
times; but considering her early life, it might be much worse. I have
much to be thankful for. She is greatly admired, only I wish she would
not wear such bright colours.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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