“Thence to Saxmunday, eight miles more. This is a pretty big market
town. The wayes are pretty deep, mostly lanes, very little commons.
I passed by several gentlemen’s seats. So to Bathford (she meant
Blythburgh), eight miles, where is the remains of the walls of an
abbey, and there is still a very fine church, &c. Thence I paused by
some woods and little villages of a few scattered houses, and
generally the people here are able to give so bad a direction that
passengers are at a loss what way to take. They know scarce three
miles from their home, and meete them where you will, and enquire how
far to such a place, they tell you so farre, which is the distance
from their own homes to that place. To Beckle is eight miles more,
which, in all, was 36 miles from Ipswich, but exceeding long miles.
They do own they are 41 measured miles. This is a little market
town, but it is the third biggest town in Suffolk—Ipswich, Berrye,
and this. There are no good buildings in the town, being old timber
and plaster work, except Sir R. Rich’s, and one or two more. There
is a bigg market Kross and a market kept. At the town’s end one
posses over the river Waveney, on a wooden bridge railed with timber,
and so you enter into Norfolk. Its a low, flat ground all here
about, so that at the least rains they are overflowed by the river,
and lie under water, as they did when I was there; so that the road
lay under water, which is very unsafe for strangers to pass, by
reason of the holes and quick-sands and loose bottom.”
If the houses in Beccles, and the roads across the marshes were as she
describes them in the reign of William and Mary, we may be quite sure
that they were no better in the time of her great grandmother. We will
imagine a traveller of this still more ancient time arriving at Beccles
on his way to Norwich, and who finding the road across the marshes to
Gillingham quite impassable from the floods, determined to make a detour
and pay a visit to Lowestoft.
In travelling from Beccles to Lowestoft, our ancient visitor would have
no dangerous marsh roads to travel on. He would ride along on the high
ground which skirted the fenlands on the north, on a road or trackway
which had been used for hundreds of years before, probably by Britons,
Romans, and Saxons, and which was the connecting link between Lothingland
and Suffolk; the road that still leads over the narrow ridge or neck
between Lake Lothing and Oulton Broad through Oulton to Burgh Castle and
Gorleston.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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