To-day, therefore, under the scorching mid-day sun, at two o'clock,
three quick-footed djins dragged us at full speed,--Yves, Chrysanthème
and myself,--in Indian file, each in a little jolting cart, to the
further end of Nagasaki, and there deposited us at the foot of some
gigantic steps that run straight up into the mountain.
These are the granite steps leading to the great temple of Osueva;
wide enough to give access to a whole regiment; they are as grand and
imposing as any work of Babylon or Nineveh, and in complete contrast
with all the finical surroundings.
We climb up and up,--Chrysanthème listlessly, affecting fatigue, under
her paper parasol painted with pink butterflies on a black ground. As
we ascended, we passed under enormous monastic porticos, also in
granite of rude and primitive style. In truth, these steps and these
temple porticos are the only imposing works that this people has
created, and they astonish, for they scarcely seem Japanese.
We climb up still higher. At this sultry hour of the day, from top to
bottom of the immense gray steps, only we three are to be seen; on all
that granite there are but the pink butterflies on Chrysanthème's
parasol, to throw a cheerful and brilliant note.
We passed through the first temple yard, in which are a couple of
white china turrets, bronze lanterns, and the statue of a large horse
in jade. Then without pausing at the sanctuary, we turned to the left,
and entered a shady garden, which formed a terrace halfway up the
hill, and at the extremity of which was situated the
_Donko-Tchaya_,--in English: _the tea-house of the Toads_.
It was here that Chrysanthème was taking us. We sat down at a table,
under a black linen tent, decorated with large white letters (of
funereal aspect), and two laughing _mousmés_ hurried up to wait upon
us.
The word _mousmé_ means a young girl, or very young woman. It is one
of the prettiest words in the Niponese language; it seems almost as if
there were a little _moue_[C] in the very sound, and as if a pretty
taking little pout such as they put on, and also a little pert
physiognomy, were described by it. I shall often make use of it,
knowing none other in our own language that conveys the same meaning.
[Footnote C: _Moue_ means "pout" in French.]
Some Japanese Watteau must have mapped out this _Donko-Tchaya_, for it
has rather an affected air of rurality, though very pretty. Well
shaded, under a thick vault of large trees densely foliaged, a
miniature lake hard by, the chosen residence of a few toads, has given
it its attractive denomination. Lucky toads, who crawl and croak on
the finest of moss, in the midst of tiny artificial islets decked with
gardenias in full bloom. From time to time, one of them informs us of
his thoughts by a "Couac," uttered in a deep bass croak infinitely
more hollow than that of our own toads.
* * * * *
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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