Nagasaki, as yet unseen, must be at the extremity of this long and
curious bay. All around us was admirably green. The strong sea-breeze
had suddenly fallen, and was succeeded by a perfect calm; the
atmosphere, now very warm, was laden with the perfume of flowers. In
the valley resounded the ceaseless whirr of the cicalas, answering
each other from one shore to another; the mountains reëchoed with
innumerable sounds; the whole country seemed to vibrate like crystal.
On our way we passed among myriads of Japanese junks, gliding softly,
wafted by imperceptible breezes on the unruffled water; their motion
could scarcely be heard, and their white sails, stretched out on
yards, fell languidly in a thousand horizontal folds like
window-blinds, their strangely contorted poops rising up castlewise in
the air, reminding one of the towering ships of the middle ages. In
the midst of the intense greenery of this wall of mountains, they
stood out with a snowy whiteness.
What a country of verdure and shade is Japan; what an unlooked-for
Eden!
Beyond us, at sea, it must have been full daylight; but here, in the
recesses of the valley, we already felt the impression of evening;
beneath the summits in full sunlight, the base of the mountains and
all the thickly wooded parts near the water's edge were steeped in
twilight.
The passing junks, gleaming white against the background of dark
foliage, were silently and dexterously maneuvered by small yellow men,
stark naked, with long hair piled up in womanlike fashion on their
heads. Gradually, as we advanced further up the green channel, the
perfumes became more penetrating, and the monotonous chirp of the
cicalas swelled out like an orchestral crescendo. Above us, on the
luminous sky, sharply delineated between the mountains, a species of
hawk hovered about, screaming out with a deep human voice, "Han! Han!
Han!" its melancholy call lengthened out by the surrounding echoes.
All this fresh and luxurious nature bore the impress of a peculiar
Japanese type, which seemed to pervade even the mountain tops, and
consisted, as it were, in an untruthful aspect of too much prettiness.
The trees were grouped in clusters, with the same pretentious grace as
on the lacquered trays. Large rocks sprang up in exaggerated shapes,
side by side with rounded lawn-like hillocks; all the incongruous
elements of landscape were grouped together as though it were an
artificial creation.
Looking intently, here and there might be seen, often built in
counterscarp on the very brink of an abyss, some old, tiny, mysterious
pagoda; half hidden in the foliage of the overhanging trees; bringing
to the minds of new arrivals such as ourselves, the sense of
unfamiliarity and strangeness; and the feeling that in this country,
the Spirits, the Sylvan Gods, the antique symbols, faithful guardians
of the woods and forests, were unknown and uncomprehended.
* * * * *
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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