In devoting a volume to an historical and descriptive account of Madrid, I am not only fulfilling a duty which could not be neglected in any serious attempt to make this Spanish Series useful and comprehensive, but I am also inspired with a hope of being able to dissipate many of the erroneous and defamatory impressions that are current with regard to the Spanish capital. I have approached the task from the standpoint of a resident writing for visitors to the city, and if my notes are biassed in favour of my subject, I can only say that I have a sincere liking and admiration for the city, and I have spoken of its people as I have found them. The Spanish metropolis is modern; it is imbued with the principles of modern progress; and while one never ceases to rejoice in the unfaltering, unchanging adherence to an immemorial past, characteristic of Toledo, one may feel an interest, equally keen and appreciative, in the spirit of new Spain which is to be found in Madrid. Not the least pleasant part of an author’s privilege in penning a preface is the opportunity it affords him of acknowledging the assistance and courtesy he has received in the accomplishment of his task. To Mr W. Gallichan my thanks are due for assistance received in the compilation, and I am also grateful to Señor Don J. Lacoste and Messrs Hauser y Menet for their kindness in permitting me to reproduce many of the illustrations that adorn this little book. A. F. C. CONTENTS PAGE I. GENERAL IMPRESSIONS OF MADRID 1 II. HISTORY OF THE CITY 18 III. THE COURT AND SOCIETY IN MADRID 32 IV. ART IN MADRID 47 V. LITERATURE AND THE DRAMA 60 VI. CHURCHES AND PUBLIC BUILDINGS 72 VII. ALCALÁ DE HENARES 128 VIII. THE BULL-FIGHT 136 IX. THE ART OF THE BULL-FIGHTER 145 X. CAFÉ LIFE OF THE MADRILEÑOS 166 ILLUSTRATIONS TITLE PLATE Plan of Madrid 1 Arms of Madrid 2 General view of Madrid 3 View of Madrid from the Teja 4 General view of Madrid 5 View of Madrid from San Isidro 6 The Fountain of Cybele and Calle de Alcalá 7