Madrid: an historical description and handbook of the Spanish capitalCalvert, Albert Frederick
History
Madrid: an historical description and handbook of the Spanish capital
Calvert, Albert Frederick
Art -- Spain -- Madrid; Madrid (Spain) -- Description and travel
The Escorial has been the scene of some important historical events,
notably of the arrest and imprisonment of the Infante Ferdinand, on the
charge of high treason against his father in 1807. He was afterwards
Ferdinand VII. The prince was confined in the Prior’s cell and managed
to communicate with his friends by the aid of a fishing line. Charles
IV. had no option but to pardon his son, whose intrigues resulted
indirectly in the spoliation of the palace which had been his prison, by
the French a year or two later.
Not without relief will the visitor leave these interminable halls and
corridors over which broods the presence of death, and seek the little
Silla del Rey, or King’s Chair, a mile and a half from the pile. It is a
natural seat, formed of granite rocks, where Philip used to watch the
progress of the building operations. It is worth visiting as affording
one of the pretty views to be obtained in the midst of a generally
uninviting district.
After a visit to the Escorial, the Palace of La Granja will seem what it
was intended to be--the house of life and gaiety. At any other time it
would seem a rather dull and depressing imitation of Versailles. It is
called the Grange or Farm and appropriately enough is in the midst of
charming scenery. Trees afford a shade not too often to be found in
barren, scorched Castile. And in the background the snowy Guadarrama
lift their heads above the pine forests. On the whole one does not
blame Philip V. for his choice of a royal domain, or wonder why the
present King’s father and mother spent much of their time here, soon
after their marriage. Yet at this height of 4000 feet above the sea, it
must be an Arctic spot at all seasons except summer. La Granja--or San
Ildefonso, to give it its official name--is the residence of the Court
in summer. If the Escorial expresses in stone the character of its
founder, the same cannot be said of this palace, for the fifth Philip
was of almost as gloomy a temper as the first. He spent very little time
at the pleasaunce he had decreed, for he died a few months after its
completion in 1746. Here in 1724 he abdicated the throne in favour of
his son, Don Luis, on whose death eight months later he was constrained
to resume the royal authority.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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