Madrid: an historical description and handbook of the Spanish capitalCalvert, Albert Frederick
History
Madrid: an historical description and handbook of the Spanish capital
Calvert, Albert Frederick
Art -- Spain -- Madrid; Madrid (Spain) -- Description and travel
The palace itself is not a very interesting structure. The principal
façade dates from 1737, and is buttressed by columns and pilasters,
supporting an entablature and balustrade. Over the middle rises an attic
story, also surmounted with a balustrade, supported by four Caryatides
representing the seasons, between them being the coat-of-arms of Spain
and the Bourbons. This front was designed by Juvarra, and is the most
tasteful portion of the building, to which additions have been made at
different epochs with little regard to harmony or good taste. The
interior, however, reflects the taste of the present august occupants.
Much of the heavy rubbish accumulated in preceding centuries has been
relegated to the lumber room, and the vast halls and corridors have been
refurnished throughout. Rich tapestries cover the walls, and the palace
still contains upwards of 300 pictures, though the finest works of art
have gone to fill the galleries of Madrid. The chapel is only worth
visiting for the tombs of Philip V. and his Italian Queen.
But if the Palace of San Ildefonso hardly rewards the visitor for his
journey from Madrid, the park is a thing of beauty and a joy at least
during a long day. Here flourish the elm, the lime, the pine, and the
chestnut, forming delicious woods. In the ornamental gardens exists the
very finest system of fountains the world has seen. Philip V. far
surpassed the achievements of the Roi Soleil in this direction. The
first visit is naturally to the lake, a beautiful expanse of water on
the bank of which is situated the important piscicultural establishment,
founded in 1867 by the King-Consort Francisco.
The gardens are filled with statues of mythological characters, grouped
with great skill among the foliage. Those most admired are the Lucretia,
Daphne, Phœbus, and America. Especially beautiful is the group of Diana
and her nymphs surprised by Actæon, in the centre of a magnificent
fountain. Contemplating the play of the waters Philip V. is said to have
exclaimed “This has amused me three minutes and cost me three millions.”
A still finer and taller column of water issues from the Trumpet of
Fame, breaking in a shower of crystalline drops 130 feet above the water
level; while miniature rainbows interlace and form an aureole round the
head of the figure. In the centre of another lake, Latona is seen,
embracing her children, while her enemies, transformed into frogs, vomit
forth jets of water in impotent rage, which cross and recross, forming
arches in bewildering variety.
There is nothing equal to this to be seen elsewhere. The achievements of
the immortal Mr Brock with fire have been eclipsed by Renato Firmin with
the conflicting element. Spain can boast the finest display of
hydrotechnics in the world.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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