Mandalay to Momien: A narrative of the two expeditions to western China of 1868 and 1875 under Colonel Edward B. Sladen and Colonel Horace BrowneAnderson, John
History
Mandalay to Momien: A narrative of the two expeditions to western China of 1868 and 1875 under Colonel Edward B. Sladen and Colonel Horace Browne
Anderson, John
Browne, Horace Albert, 1832-1914 -- Travel -- Burma; Browne, Horace Albert, 1832-1914 -- Travel -- China -- Yunnan Sheng; Burma -- Description and travel; Sladen, E. B. (Edward Bosc), 1827-1890 -- Travel -- Burma; Sladen, E. B. (Edward Bosc), 1827-1890 -- Travel -- China -- Yunnan Sheng; Yunnan Shen
The first square is inhabited by the officials, civil and military,
and the soldiers of the royal army. All the houses are in separate
enclosures, bordering broad, well kept streets; along the fronts
is carried the king’s fence, a latticed palisade, behind which the
subjects hide themselves when his majesty passes. During the day,
stalls are set up in the streets, and the various Burmese necessaries,
even to cloth, are sold, but at night all are cleared away and the
gates closed. The central or royal square is surrounded by an outer
stockade of teak timber twelve feet in height, and an inner wall.
Entrance is given by two gates opposite each other, opening into a
wide place, containing the government offices and the royal mint,
on one side; on the other, a wall runs across, and a large gateway,
opened only for the king, and a small postern give access to the palace
enclosure. All Burmese entering this take off their shoes. Within is a
wide open area, as large as a London square. On the opposite side rises
a building crowned by nine roofs richly gilded, and surmounted by a
golden _htee_, or umbrella, with its tinkling coronal of bells. This
marks the audience hall. All entering this are required to take off
their shoes, for the royal abode is sacred. The same rule applies to
all temples, and this unbooting is really a mark of religious respect,
due as much to the meanest khyoung as to the residence of the king.
This fact perhaps, if borne in mind, might soothe the ruffled feelings
of those who see in this unbooting a mark of degrading homage. To the
left is the abode of the white elephant, which, it may be said, is
scarcely distinguishable from any other elephant save by the paler hue
of the skin of the head. To the right is the royal arsenal, outside of
which the visitor would be now surprised by the sight of a completely
armed and equipped deck of a vessel, which serves as a school for naval
gunnery.
We were not admitted to an audience, nor did we see the royal gardens,
which, with the other palace buildings, lie to the rear of the central
hall. Dr. Dawson, as quoted in Mason’s ‘Burmah,’ describes the gardens
in glowing language, as “truly beautiful, and as picturesque as they
are grand.” Outside the walls of the city the suburbs, or unwalled
town, stretch away southward in broad streets, which converge towards
the Arracan pagoda; and in the distance the spires of pagodas mark the
site of Amarapura.
It is impossible to estimate the population, but it must exceed one
hundred thousand, to judge by the extent of ground covered by houses.
Between the city and Mandalay hill numerous khyoungs have been erected
by the queens and other members of the royal family, the teak pillars
and roof timbers of which are magnificently carved and richly gilt.
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