Mandalay to Momien: A narrative of the two expeditions to western China of 1868 and 1875 under Colonel Edward B. Sladen and Colonel Horace BrowneAnderson, John
History
Mandalay to Momien: A narrative of the two expeditions to western China of 1868 and 1875 under Colonel Edward B. Sladen and Colonel Horace Browne
Anderson, John
Browne, Horace Albert, 1832-1914 -- Travel -- Burma; Browne, Horace Albert, 1832-1914 -- Travel -- China -- Yunnan Sheng; Burma -- Description and travel; Sladen, E. B. (Edward Bosc), 1827-1890 -- Travel -- Burma; Sladen, E. B. (Edward Bosc), 1827-1890 -- Travel -- China -- Yunnan Sheng; Yunnan Shen
From this point, for thirty miles, as far as Malé and Tsampenago, the
country on either bank is hilly, and covered to the water’s edge with
luxuriant forest. Winding in a succession of long reaches, the river
presents a series of lovely lake landscapes. The stream, one thousand
to fifteen hundred yards wide, flows placid and unbroken, save by the
gambols of round-headed dolphins. As, preceded by long lines of these
creatures, we steamed slowly along, each successive reach seemed barred
by wooded cliffs. Reminiscences of the lake scenery of the old country
were vividly awakened as we passed from one apparently land-locked
scene of beauty to another. The high irregular hills were clothed with
forest trees almost hidden by brilliant orchids and gigantic pendant
creepers. Palms of various kinds feathered the water’s edge. Here and
there fishing-villages peeped out, and everywhere graceful pagodas
and priests’ houses gleamed amid the foliage. Parroquets darted and
hornbills winged their heavy flight across the stream, while chattering
troops of long-tailed black monkeys escorted the unusual visitors along
the banks.
The chief object of interest is the little rocky island of Theehadaw,
which boasts the only stone pagoda in Burma, and is resorted to by
numbers of pilgrims at the great Buddhist festival in March. The
pagoda is of no great size, but is substantially built of greyish
sandstone admirably cut and laid in mortar. The building rises from
a quadrangular base, with a chamber facing the east and closed with
massive doors. The three other faces have false doors, and the sides
of all, as well as the angles, are adorned with quasi-Doric pilasters.
Our attention, like that of most pilgrims, was chiefly given to the
famous tame fish. Having supplied ourselves with rice and plantains,
the boatmen, called “Tit-tit-tit.” Soon the fish appeared, about fifty
yards off, and after repeated cries, they were alongside, greedily
devouring the offering of food. In their eagerness they showed their
uncouth heads and great part of their backs, to which patches of gold
leaf, laid on by recent devotees, still adhered. So tame were they that
they suffered themselves to be stroked, and seemed to relish having
their long feelers pulled. One fellow to whom a plantain skin was
thrown indignantly rejected it, and dived in disgust.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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