Mandalay to Momien: A narrative of the two expeditions to western China of 1868 and 1875 under Colonel Edward B. Sladen and Colonel Horace BrowneAnderson, John
History
Mandalay to Momien: A narrative of the two expeditions to western China of 1868 and 1875 under Colonel Edward B. Sladen and Colonel Horace Browne
Anderson, John
Browne, Horace Albert, 1832-1914 -- Travel -- Burma; Browne, Horace Albert, 1832-1914 -- Travel -- China -- Yunnan Sheng; Burma -- Description and travel; Sladen, E. B. (Edward Bosc), 1827-1890 -- Travel -- Burma; Sladen, E. B. (Edward Bosc), 1827-1890 -- Travel -- China -- Yunnan Sheng; Yunnan Shen
Leaving Shuaygoo-myo, we passed the large island of Shuaybaw, with its
thousand pagodas, their bright golden htees strikingly contrasting with
the rich green massive foliage, above which they rose. The great pagoda
is about sixty feet high, enclosed on two sides by a richly carved
zayat of teak with an elaborately decorated roof, and a cornice of
small niches, containing seated marble Buddhas. Two broad paved ways,
one known as the Shuaygoo-myo and the other as the Bhamô entrance,
approach the pagoda, which is three quarters of a mile distant from
the river. Numerous zayats cluster round the central shrine, piled to
the ceiling with Buddhistic figures in metal, wood, and white marble,
offered by the worshippers who yearly throng this holy place sanctified
by the footprint of Gaudama.
Three miles above the island is the entrance to the second defile,
where the Irawady flows through a magnificent gorge piercing a range
of hills at right angles. For five miles the deep dark green current,
narrowed to three hundred yards, but deepening to one hundred and
eighty feet and more, is overhung by gigantic precipices. Their summits
are mostly covered with scanty stunted trees, but some rise bare, with
splintery peaks, and red, rocky escarpments; lower down their bold
sides are mantled in dark green forest, picked out here and there with
the fresher green of festooned clumps of bamboos, palms, and luxuriant
musæ. Little fishing-villages enclosed in bamboo palisades lie snugly
in the hollows. Entering the defile, we rounded a many-peaked hill on
the left bank, which rose precipitously four hundred feet, its outline
broken by huge black rocks standing out against the blue sky. The
little white pagoda of Yethaycoo, in front of a cave, and dominating
a grey limestone precipice one hundred and fifty feet in height,
looked across the gorge to a phoongyee’s house perched on high, and
accessible only by bamboo ladders. The most striking feature was the
great limestone precipice which rose like a gigantic wall eight hundred
feet from the water’s edge. This is the Deva-faced cliff celebrated in
the mythical history of Tsampenago. At its base the little pagoda of
Sessoungan was perched on a detached pyramid of limestone embowered
in fine trees. During the March festival many devotees scale the long
bamboo ladders which form the only access to the shrine. The Buddhist
love for preserving animal life is here manifested towards the large
monkeys (_Macacus assamensis_, M’Lelland), which, like the tame fish,
come when called, and devour the offerings of the devotees. Projecting
and depending from the precipice were huge masses of stalagmite
formation, seemingly liable to fall at any moment. Water was dripping
over them, and the natives say that during the rains the water pours
over the face of the precipice in a tremendous cascade, the roar of
which is deafening. It may well be so, for the echoes in the defile
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