A smile only--not a grunt of indignation--is elicited by another
peculiarity of Rome, which comes under the lounger's notice. Something
of the same sort is perhaps also observable in all large cities; but it
never struck me so strongly. I allude to the names of the streets and
squares and public places, which names by the way are carefully and
prominently labelled. The jumble is curious, though one starts a little
at times from what to Protestant eyes seems irreverent. Take a sample,
dispensing with the titles in Italian. You may stroll through the street
of the Three Virgins, of the Three Robbers, of Jesus, of the Tarpeian
Rock, of the Two Butchers' Shops, of the Baboon, of Divine Love, of the
New Benches, of the Prefects, of the House-tops, of Jesus and Mary, of
the Greeks, of the Tower of Blood, of the Triton, of the Guardian Angel,
of the Strumpet, of the Soul, of the Scrofula, of the Eagle, of the
Lion's Mouth, of the Five Moons, of Minerva, of the Incurables, of the
Wind, of the Wolf, of St. John Beheaded. You may halt in the square of
the Mouth of Truth, in that of the Field of Flowers, in that of the
Satyrs, in that of Consolation, in that of the Goose. It is evident that
no ruling mind or principle has regulated this public nomenclature. _Tot
homines, quot sententiæ._
And is it not the same thing in private affairs? What variety of tastes!
Here is a specimen. Two young men of my acquaintance, who have been
campaigning in India, arrived here, the other day, on their first
visit. One of them had a relative here, of a scholastic turn of mind,
who was bringing a protracted sojourn to a close; and to him the cavalry
officers were in a measure consigned. "Can you tell me what's to be seen
at Ostia and Veii?" said one of them to me, forty-eight hours after
their arrival. "Our friend, B., is going to take us a day's excursion to
each place, to-morrow and the following day." I could scarcely keep my
countenance. The poor innocents were sold to an antiquarian. Ostia is
destitute of any objects that would repay a half-hour's walk. As for
Veii, the learned have only agreed of late whereabouts that ancient city
stood.
BRIGANDS, BEGGARS, AND SOUVENIRS.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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