My last communication was from Rome. It was piquant, on the day of
departure thence from Naples, to dine at Terracina with a Prussian
family, who had been stopped and robbed by brigands, at eight o'clock
the previous morning, at a spot between Velletri and Cisterna. There was
however no _Fra Diavolo_ in the case. The respectable _père de famille_,
who with his sons and daughters had been laid under contribution,
informed us that the fellows were evidently peasants unused to the
trade; that they presented guns, in exacting their demand for money; but
that they were nervous in their brief operation, and that they did not
ransack the trunks, nor even carry off the watches and rings of the
party. The chief sufferer was the vetturino, whom fright and the loss of
thirty-six dollars had thrown into a fever, causing the detention which
brought us into contact with the narrators. We passed on our way,
without adventure; the safest period, there as elsewhere, being that
which immediately follows one. I incline to think that extreme
destitution induced this recourse to a practice almost obsolete, as it
probably gave rise to the personal robberies, unattended with violence,
which have been recently rife in Rome itself.
And in connection with this point, I may swell the laments of late
travellers as to the chronic prevalence, throughout Southern Italy, of
those other unceasing robberies of extortion and mendicancy, which are
so much more difficult of toleration. I declare that of all the mythical
personages of classic lore brought back to one's memory by local
association, whether in the Elysian Fields or on the borders of Lake
Avernus, the Harpies are those who alone survive, and who obtrude
themselves always and everywhere, in season and out of season. The foul
brood have assumed human semblance, and haunt you in all varieties. The
unbidden cicerone, or the sturdy beggar--it is hard to say which is the
worse.
How I anathematized them both at Sorrento, where there are certain
souvenirs of Tasso, not so direct and tangible as those preserved in the
Convent of San Onofrio at Rome, but which are worth the tracing. You
will remember that the hapless poet found a resting place here in the
house of his sister, after he escaped from his seven years' imprisonment
at Ferrara. To be adjured, for charity, in the name of the Virgin and
every Saint in the calendar--to have a jackass and a guide, or a jackass
of a guide, thrust upon you, _nolens volens_ for an excursion that you
have no mind to take, or to be importuned to "put out, put out, put out
to sea," when you know that March winds and waves make the azure grotto
of Capri totally inaccessible--these diversions, I say, do not assist
one in gathering up one's reminiscences of Tasso, however much they may
chasten and so improve the temper.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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