And here I may observe also upon a peculiarity that marks the research
of certain travellers, somewhat akin perhaps to the taste which induces
certain readers to trace history through personal memoirs, in place of
studying broader narrations. If truth were told, there are a hundred who
commune with Pepys and Horace Walpole, to ten who find delight in Hume.
So is it--though by no means in the same proportion--with sight-seers on
ground that is rich in historical associations. All their sympathies, or
the larger portion of them at least, are with individuals, as though
there were no grappling with a race, a nation, an age that is past.
Stories, wholly or in part fictitious, are their hand-books. To them the
Capitol of Rome is the scene of Rienzi's rise and fall, as interpreted
by Bulwer Lytton. At Pompeii their chief care is to find out the abode
of Glaucus and Ione. Nor can it be denied that there is an additional
charm in this mode of viewing localities that are new to us, if it be
not the most philosophical. In my own case, without needless parading of
the degree in which I share this gentle weakness or disapprove it, I
must own that its exercise gives at times an unexpected zest to a
ramble. Whilst in Rome, for instance, I do not think that one's serious
views of history or art are in any manner jarred upon, because here and
there one stumbles upon relics that savour of individuality. At any rate
I should not like to have missed the old mansion of the Anviti family,
near the bridge of St. Angelo, mentioned by that old gossip, Benvenuto
Cellini, as the frequent rendezvous of Michael Angelo, Raffaele,
Cardinal Bembo, and other choice spirits of his day. I should have been
sorry to have omitted a visit to the boudoir of Lucrezia Borgia, in the
Convent close beside the church of St. Pietro in Vincolo, once the
residence of Pope Alexander VI., and now mainly converted into a barrack
for the troops of "the elder son of the Church." The part however in
which is placed this small apartment, decorated with frescoes of the
period, is still applied to conventual purposes. There is no legend
about the matter, at least so far as regards the possession of the
Borgia family; and the room being small in size, and unique in situation
and style of ornament within and without, it is not difficult to believe
that it was the chosen resort of a young lady in days when there was
less gadding about than now. Still, to be candid, I must own that in
musing here, as in looking at the lock of the same amiable woman's hair
preserved in the Ambrosian Library of Milan, one is apt to have one's
recollections of mediæval depravity not slightly tinctured by visions of
Giulia Grisi in the prime of her voice and beauty, to say nothing of
Victor Hugo's grand drama, and old Mademoiselle Georges' unrivalled
performance therein.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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