On the rocky shore where the rough pathway terminates, stands, or stood
at the period of which I write, a solitary hut. There, during the short
summer season, might be found a family who earned a scanty subsistence,
by catching the lake trout and serving them up to chance travellers; by
rowing, in the solitary punt, any one who cared to paddle about the dark
waters; or by escorting any still more adventurous stranger desirous of
exploring the glaciers above-named, or ascending the lower heights of
the Vignemale.
Stepping up to the door of this cabin, I entered into conversation with
its chief occupant, who probably combined in his own person the various
offices of restaurateur, fisherman, muleteer, guide, and smuggler.
Possibly I libel him in the last respect; but along that frontier of
France and Spain, it is rare to find a mountaineer guiltless of the
contraband trade.
A visitor on such a day was a welcome sight to the poor fellow, who was
eloquent in regrets that _his_ mountain and _his_ glaciers and _his_
other local points of interest were all wrapped in the impenetrable
mist. He seemed, I remember now, to care more about it than I did; for I
had revelled in the exhibition of cascades, and was rather tickled at
the notion of having come up to this lone and savage spot, where nothing
whatever was to be seen.
If a spirit had whispered me, that the moment of my third _rencontre_
was close at hand, I should have smiled incredulously.
The fog lifted. I could see to a distance of half a dozen yards.
"What's that?"
"If Monsieur will give himself the trouble of walking up to it, he will
see."
It was on a jutting promontory of rock, close at hand. A small enclosure
was railed in. It held what was obviously a monumental tablet, in white
marble, but discoloured by exposure.
"A favourite poodle, perhaps, of the Duchesse de Berri--or one of our
eccentric Englishmen doing honour to a Pyrenean bear!" Such I thought it
might be, as I carelessly lounged up to it, and stooped to read the
inscription.
It was in French and English. I took no copy of the words. But it was
placed there in memory of Mr. and Mrs. Easton, drowned in the lake,
within one month of their marriage, on the 20th of September, 18--! The
facts were simply stated. I wish the record of them had been placed a
little further off from the rendezvous of the thoughtless and
light-hearted.
This was the last of my associations with her. But it would not interest
the reader, to be told with what feelings of surprise and sorrow I thus
learned the close of a career, which bid so fair for happiness and
usefulness. Poor Mary Verner!
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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