thought of; descent in such cases is always far more dangerous and
troublesome. It was fortunate that in crossing twice or thrice the
waterfall itself, we were not pumped on to any serious extent. I was
moistened only, being garnished with a Macintosh; and I have only two
scars now left on my shins, the result of scraping too close an
acquaintance with sundry rocks. The whole affair lasted between three
and four hours. I cannot recommend it, save to very enthusiastic
mountaineers, or to _ci-devant jeunes hommes_ anxious to test the
effects of Time upon their powers of walking and of endurance.
Regaining the hurricane-deck of the Tip-top House--for the roof is the
principal promenade, and often times assuredly deserves the name I give
it, how gratefully, as the sun went down, stole the sense of ineffable
grandeur over the somewhat wearied frame! It was a superb evening; and
though it would not suit me to cull a leaf from the Guide-book, and tell
all that is therein narrated, I must mention one particular wherein this
locality is notable, if not quite unique. I think I remember something
of the kind, but not so marked, at sunrise as seen from the summit of
Etna; but not thus, on the Righi and Faulhorn in Switzerland, on the Pic
du Midi de Bigorre in the Pyrenees, or on other peaks that I have
climbed in the days of long ago, to salute the coming or speed the
parting day. The nearest approach to it that I have seen, was at the
Great Pyramid of Ghizeh. I allude to the wonderful distinctness and
regularity with which the shadow of the great cone itself is traced, at
sunset, striding over heights and lowlands, mound and lake--all the
intervening surface, in fact, between the spectator and the far distant
horizon--until it contracts almost to a point where earth and sky merge
into one. The sharpness of these converging parallel lines of shadow in
that luminous atmosphere absolutely astounded me. They were as crisp, as
clearly defined, as those that you may see in antique pictures of
Jacob's Dream, leading ladder-wise from Heaven to the head of the
slumbering Patriarch. Sunrise, next morning--for I was again favoured
with clear weather and only sufficient frost to render the roof of the
restaurant slightly slippery--sunrise, I say, reserved all this. The
narrow lines, now on the Western horizon, broadened out and came upwards
and forwards, as in the evening they had elongated and gone down. It was
in truth a rare spectacle, not to be forgotten, and individualizes this
natural observatory.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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