To say this, is simply to add the testimony of another witness to that
which has set down Nuremburg as the city of all Europe least changed
with changing times. The very little that has been done of late years in
the way of repairing and rebuilding, within the walls, has been done in
strict accordance with the prevalent mediæval style. The result is
that--whereas elsewhere, when you stumble upon a private dwelling of
moderate proportions showing plainly that it was built some two or three
or four or five centuries ago, you congratulate yourself upon having
discovered a curiosity (as such a one really would be in Paris, for
instance)--here the difficult search would be for a house, modern and
spruce. Not that a rectangularly-ornamented gable-end is the
quintessence of architectural beauty, or that a basement front of low
iron-barred windows suggests an agreeable or hospitable interior. By no
means. If this were all, there would be considerable quaintness, and
nought beyond. But it is otherwise. Some of the decorative bits that
catch the eye right and left, are absolute gems in their way--whether
oriel windows, or fantastic turrets, or figures and devices embossed and
sculptured. Taste, generally for the Gothic, but diverging at a later
date into the Renaissance style, seems to have run riot here in wilful
playfulness.
Of the regular sights set down in the hand-books, and explored by
conscientious Englishmen with their Murrays under their arms, it would
not be appropriate to speak at length. I may however indulge in an
allusion to the different material, whereof are constructed two of the
most highly-laboured marvels, here exhibited. Now the city itself is
divided into two nearly equal parts by the small river Pegnitz, these
parts bearing the names respectively of the principal church that stands
in either. The one is dedicated to St. Sebald, the other to St.
Lawrence. The former, as its chief curiosity, contains the shrine of its
patron Saint, an elaborate and most exquisitely wrought fretwork canopy,
about fifteen feet in height, beneath which repose his remains. The
design is in a measure architectural, and Gothic of course; but the
ornamentation is its great glory, though one is staggered somewhat at
the irreverent juxtaposition of the twelve Apostles with Cupids and
Mermaids, and at sundry Fathers of the Church disporting themselves amid
clusters of fruit and bouquets of flowers. This monument of artistic
skill was the work of Peter Vischer, one of the worthies of Nuremburg,
and has been completed three hundred and forty years. The able worker,
having dispensed with consistency in the admixture of Christian and
Pagan accessories, as I have mentioned, was at least justified in
introducing a figure of himself as one of the human animals; and a very
fine statuette he makes, with chisel in hand and his working apron about
him. Now mark, if you please, O attentive reader, this shrine of St.
Sebald is entirely cast in bronze.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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