Mediæval London, Volume 1: Historical & SocialBesant, Walter
History
Mediæval London, Volume 1: Historical & Social
Besant, Walter
London (England) -- History -- To 1500; London (England) -- Social life and customs -- To 1500
The people of mediæval times loved everything to be sweet, as is shown
above in their pouring a sweet sauce over their birds, and honey
over their meat; they also sweetened their wine. Each course, which
consisted of three or more dishes for an ordinary dinner, was a dinner
in itself, containing fish, flesh, fowl, and sweets. For instance, at a
certain dinner there were two courses only, but of eight or nine dishes
to each course; thus we have in the first course, lamprey, codling,
shoulder of mutton, chicken, wild goose, wood dove, worts (vegetable)
and “tortous” in paste. In the second we have eels, sea horse, lamb,
mallard, quail, goldfinch, and “pynnondde”; but there was an interval
between each course. As we shall see immediately, table manners were
carefully taught and insisted upon. One curious regulation was that
cooks were forbidden to go out of the City in order to meet victuals
coming in, so that they might get them more cheaply than in the open
market. The Mayor also took account of the deceitful ways of certain
pastelers or piebakers, who dared to put giblets and rabbits into
their pies, and to sell beef pies for venison pies. And the sale of
meat that was putrid was punished by pillory, while the meat itself
was burned under the offender’s nose. The great City merchant fed
as well as the King, and sometimes entertained the King quite royally.
The humbler man, the well-to-do burgher, and even the craftsman, there
is every reason to believe, fared well and plentifully: they lived on
beef and mutton, meat pies, pork, capons, wild birds, and sea fish.
The wild birds were brought up in great quantities from the counties
of Essex and Suffolk; there was a plentiful supply of fish; from all
the country round along every track that they called a highway, down
the rivers—the Thames, the Brent, the Wandle, the Fleet, the Lea, the
Ravensbourne, came boats and barges laden with farm produce. The City
was well supplied; and there was seldom any dearth. As for the food of
the middle classes—the better sort—was not the Company at the Tabard
chiefly composed of the middle class? Among them was the Cook. What did
he cook for them?
“A cook they hadde with them for the nones,
To boil the chicken and the marrow bones,
And poudre marchant tart, and galingale
Well could he know a draught of London ale.
He could roast and seethe and broil and fry,
Maken mortrewes and well bake a pie.
* * * * *
For blank manger that made he with the best.”
“‘Blank manger’ is a compound of capon minced, with rice, milk, sugar
and almonds. ‘Poudre marchant tart’ is a sharp kind of flavouring
powder stewed with meat. Galingale is the root of the sweet cyprus, now
no longer used. It is said to have an aromatic smell and a hot, biting
taste.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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