Mediæval London, Volume 1: Historical & SocialBesant, Walter
History
Mediæval London, Volume 1: Historical & Social
Besant, Walter
London (England) -- History -- To 1500; London (England) -- Social life and customs -- To 1500
Of ‘mortrewes’ there were two kinds, ‘mortrewes de char’ and ‘mortrewes
of fysshe.’ The first was a kind of soup in which chicken, fresh pork,
bread crumbs, yolks of eggs, and saffron formed the chief ingredients.
The second kind was a soup containing the roe (or milt) and liver of
fish, bread, pepper, and ale. The ingredients were first brazed in a
mortar, whence their name.” (Skeat, _Notes to Canterbury Tales_.)
For a mixed company which contained—all together—craftsmen, retailers,
merchants, sailors, ecclesiastics, squires, and knights, the kind of
food here indicated is generous, at least.
If, however, we study the list of creatures killed for one of the
huge feasts in which the people took delight we arrive at a clearer
understanding of the kind of food that could be bought by those who
could afford it. Of animals we find wild bulls (!), oxen, sheep,
calves, swine, kids, stags, bucks, and does. Of birds there are plover,
quail, “rees” (query, ruffs and reeves?), peacock, mallard, swan, teal,
crane, chicken, pigeon, bittern, heron, pheasant, partridge, woodcock,
curlew, egrette. Of fish, pike, bream, porpoise, seal. Jellies, tarts,
custards, and sugared spices sweetened the magnificent feast. In
the account of another meal which took place on a fast day, we find
the following:—Of fish: ling, cod, salmon, fresh and salted, white
herring, red herring, sturgeon, eel, salt and fresh, whelk, pike,
tench, carp, bream, lamprey, fresh and salt, conger, roach, seal, and
porpoise. And in other menus we find entries of magpie, rook, jackdaw,
thrush, starling, linnet, sparrow, heathcock, cormorant, sheldrake,
wildfowl, lark. The crane plays a considerable part in mediæval
feasting. On one occasion when ambassadors arrived from France, the
City gave them, among other things, twelve cranes and twelve pheasants.
At the enthronisation feast of the Archbishop of York (6 Ed. IV.) there
were provided 204 cranes, 204 bitterns, and 400 heron-shaws. At a feast
of Richard II. we find the following as the second course:—
Pottage
Pigges rosted
Cranes rosted
Fesaunts rosted
Herne rosted
Cranes lived in damp and marshy places, as did also egrettes, a kind
of heron; the country was covered with such places; so that they were
doubtless common. Since 204 cranes could have been trapped or caught or
shot with bow or with sling, for a single feast, they must have been
quite common.
In a word, the people trapped, killed, and devoured all birds great and
small. Hares and rabbits, of course, were served at table; and perhaps,
no less daintily, the squirrel and hedgehog.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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