Memoir and Correspondence of Caroline HerschelHerschel, John, Mrs.
History
Memoir and Correspondence of Caroline Herschel
Herschel, John, Mrs.
Herschel, Caroline Lucretia, 1750-1848
_Naples, Aug. 20th, 1824._—I take the first moment of leisure to proceed
with this. I made the ascent of Etna without particular difficulty,
though with excessive fatigue. The ascent from Catania is through the
village of Nicolosi, about ten miles from Catania, almost every step of
which is covered with the tremendous stream of lava which, in 1669,
burst from the flanks of the mountain, near Nicolosi, and overwhelmed
the city. Here I found a M. Gemellaro, who was so good as to make
corresponding observations of the barometer and thermometer during my
absence, while his brother observed below at Catania, and I carried up
my mountain barometer and other instruments to the summit. From Nicolosi
the ascent becomes rugged and laborious, first through a broad belt of
fine oak forest, which encircles the mountain like a girdle about its
middle, and affords some beautiful romantic scenery—when this is passed
we soon reach the limits of vegetation, and a long desolate scorched
slope, knee-deep in ashes, extends for about five miles to a little hut,
where I passed the night (a glorious starlight one) with the barometer
at 21·307 in.—and next morning mounted the crater by a desperate
scramble up a cone of lava and ashes, about 1,000 feet high. The sunrise
from this altitude, and the view of Sicily and Calabria, which is
gradually disclosed, is easier conceived than described. On the highest
point of the crater I was enveloped in suffocating sulphurous vapours,
and was glad enough to make my observation (bar. 21·400) and get down.
By this the altitude appears to be between 10 and 11,000 feet. I reached
Catania the same night, almost dead with the morning’s scramble and the
dreadful descent of near thirty miles, where the mules (which can be
used for a considerable part of the way) could scarce keep their feet.
_Florence, Aug. 16th, 1824._—In the hurry and bustle of travelling one
is obliged to write by snatches when one can.... I hope to hear from you
at all events when I reach England if I should not see you first, of
which I begin now to have serious doubts, having been so terribly
retarded in my Sicilian journey, and at Naples, on my return, by the
illness of a friend.
Your affectionate nephew,
J. F. W. HERSCHEL.
P.S.—Have you heard how M. Pfaff’s translation proceeds? I wrote to him
from Cattagione, in Sicily.
[Sidenote: 1824. _Her Nephew’s Travels._]
MUNICH, _Sept. 17, 1824_.
MY DEAR AUNT,—
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