“_Friday._—Rainy. Walked into Ambleside to see Mr. Cotton off
by the mail, and afterwards as the weather cleared up we went
out on Windermere, and had a very pleasant afternoon.
“_Saturday._—A fine day. Tom and I determined to do something
‘gordgeous,’ and so we set out to walk up Helvellyn, and we had
some precious good walking before we got up. We started from
the foot at a quarter past eleven, and reached the summit at
a quarter to one. One hour and a half,—pretty good walking,
considering three-quarters or more was as steep or steeper
than the side of Beacon Hill[8] which we slide down. Although
quite warm in the valley, the top of the mountain was a sheet
of ice, and the wind blew quite a gale. It did not, however,
prevent us from enjoying a view of nearly fifty miles on all
sides. We saw Windermere, Coniston, and the sea towards the
south, as far as Lancaster. Ulswater close on the north-east;
Skiddaw and Saddleback and Bassenthwaite Lake on the north; on
the west the range of mountains in which is Scawfell, 3,160
feet, the highest mountain in England. We saw into Scotland,
Cumberland, Cheshire, Lancashire, and Yorkshire. It was a most
splendid day, but there was a sort of mist in the very far
distance which prevented our seeing quite as much as we should
otherwise. Helvellyn on the side towards Ulswater descends in
a precipice 1,000 feet, and a long narrow ridge, called, I
think, Straddle Edge, from its narrowness, stretches out at
right angles from the mountain, on the same side. There are
innumerable places in which a person might break his neck, or
be frozen to death without help, as few go up the mountain at
this time of the year, it being a continual frost up there.
We made ourselves very comfortable under the lee of a cairn,
or heap of stones, which had been raised on the very highest
point, round a tall upright pole. I got up, and put a stone
at the top, and we put a newspaper which contained our grub
into the middle of the heap, having first taken out a quantity
of stones; how long it will stay there I don’t know. We then
proceeded to grub with uncommon appetite,—some hard ‘unleavened
bread,’ some tolerable cheese, and a lot of the common oat-cake
they make in the country. We had some good fun, loosening and
rolling masses of rock down the precipitous side into the ‘Red
Tarn,’ a largish bit of water, and into the table-land below.
We then came home by Gresdale Tarn and Grasmere, after a good
long walk. This was last Saturday.
“Dr. and Mrs. Arnold are very kind, and I have spent a very
pleasant week here. I go away on Tuesday to Escrick Park. Next
Wednesday week, or about that time, I shall start for London
again, and shall be with you about the 20th; till which time
“I remain, your affectionate son,
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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