Memoir of William Watts McNair, Late of "Connaught House," Mussooree, of the Indian Survey Department, the First European Explorer of Kafiristan — John Shaqi
Memoir of William Watts McNair, Late of "Connaught House," Mussooree, of the Indian Survey Department, the First European Explorer of KafiristanHoward, J. E.
History
Memoir of William Watts McNair, Late of "Connaught House," Mussooree, of the Indian Survey Department, the First European Explorer of Kafiristan
Howard, J. E.
McNair, William Watts, 1849-1889; Nuristan (Afghanistan) -- Description and travel; Nuristani (Asian people)
The story of his adventures may be briefly told. Every one knows that
the Government of India issued strict injunctions against allowing any
European to cross the Afghan frontier. Nevertheless that restless
spirit Sir Charles McGregor, Quartermaster-General, was naturally
anxious to know something of the debateable land that lies north of the
Kabul river and south of the Hindoo Koosh, and which tradition alleges
to have been colonised by the soldiers of the Great Alexander himself.
We have no doubt, that McGregor prompted the enterprise, though McNair
never distinctly said that he had been urged by so high an officer to
break the orders of his official superiors. The affair was arranged in
this way. McNair took furlough, and ceased for the moment to be a
servant of Government. He disappeared across the frontier and was not
heard of again till his safe return was assured. Of course he had
confederates; one in particular, a tribal chief whose friendship he had
secured in the Afghan campaigns of 1878-79. His disguise was, however,
pretty complete, walnut juice being, we believe, the material that
converted a florid complexion into the tan so natural to Afghan
mountaineers. He had the wisdom to confine his words to a language he
understood as well as English, viz., Urdu, and posed as a _Hukeem_ from
India impelled by a spirit of benevolence to visit unknown lands for
the sake of caring the ailments of his fellew creatures. Had he
attempted to talk Pushtoo, his foreign intonation would have been
detected, while his knowledge of that tongue enabled him to detect the
drift of any conversation that was carried on in his presence. Once, we
believe, he was in imminent danger, a proposal having been set on foot
to put an end to the wanderings of the _Hukeem_, as an English spy. A
rapid change of quarters averted the danger, and he afterwards fell in
with the people he came to see, viz., the Kafirs, who whether,
descending from Alexander's Greeks or not, received him kindly. We
believe the _Hukeem_ was aided in his researches by a big book supposed
to contain medical receipts, but which was in reality a box of
surveying instruments, its outside covered with cabalistic signs
bearing a family resemblance to a plane-table! The _Hukeem_ was much
given to solitary meditation, and generally sought mountain peaks for
that purpose. On such occasions the plane-table afforded him invaluable
assistance.
But we have said almost enough of poor McNair's adventure. On his
return he was ordered to Simla and officially reprimanded by the
Viceroy, Lord Ripon, for disobedience of orders! He was consoled,
however, by being told by the same nobleman at a private interview that
his pluck was admired, while his fast friend, Sir Charles McGregor,
received him with open arms. Such was the bright opening of a career
that was so soon to be cut short at Mussooree by typhoid fever.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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