Ragged and tattered as a troop of young gypsies, how we revelled in that
wonderful country of mountains, gorges, and ravines, with their superb
Provençal names, so sonorous and characteristic, they seem to bear the
impress of the genius of the people. The “Mourre de la Nur,” from whose
summit one could see the white coast-line of the Mediterranean, and
where at sunset on Saint John’s day we lit the bonfires; the Baume de
l’Argent, where formerly they made counterfeit coin; the Roque Pied de
Bœuf, on which was the mark of a bull’s hoof; and the Roque d’Acier,
dominating the Rhône, with its boats and rafts as they float down the
stream: national monuments these, of our land and our language, sweet
with the scent of thyme, rosemary and lavender, glowing with colours of
gold and azure. O Land where Nature smiles so divinely, what dreams of
delight thou didst reveal to my childhood!
But to return to Saint-Michel. We had, as I have said, a certain
chaplain, Monsieur Talon, a little abbé from Avignon. He was short,
stout, with a rubicund visage like a beggar’s water-gourd. The
Archbishop of Avignon had deprived him of his benefice because he was
somewhat given to tippling, and sent him to us to be out of the way.
One Saint’s day--a Thursday--we had all been taken over to a
neighbouring village, Boulbon, to march in the procession--the big boys
swung incense, the little ones scattered flowers, while Monsieur Talon
was invited, most imprudently alas! to be the officiating priest.
All the town turned out; men, women, and girls lined the streets, gaily
decorated with flags and bunting. The confraternities waved their
banners, the fresh voices of the white-robed choristers intoned the
Canticles, and with devout heads bowed before the Host; we swung our
censers and strewed our flowers, when all at once a murmur ran through
the crowd, and, great heavens! down the centre of the street with the
Host in his hands, the golden cope on his back, came poor Monsieur Talon
swaying like a pendulum.
He had dined at the presbytery, and had no doubt been pressed to too
much of that good vintage of Frigolet, which mounts so quickly to the
head. The unhappy man, red as much from shame as from the wine, could
not hold himself straight. Supported by the deacon and sub-deacon, one
on each side, he entered the church with the procession. But finding
himself before the altar, Monsieur Talon could say nothing save,
“Oremus, oremus, oremus,” and finally they were obliged to remove him to
the sacristy.
The scandal this caused may be imagined! Less, however, in that
particular district than elsewhere, for all this took place in a parish
where the “divine bottle” still celebrates its rites, as in the days of
Bacchus. Near Boulbon, in the mountains, stands an old chapel dedicated
to Saint-Marcellin, and on the first day of June the men of Boulbon go
there in procession, each carrying a bottle of wine.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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