We cannot here follow the Count into the wide field which he thus
indicates, nor is it necessary, since his own work is accessible in
several languages. But from various passages we may offer a sketch of
the manners approved at the pattern court of Urbino, which will not
be deemed misplaced in these pages. The men who figured there were
chiefly distinguished in arms or letters. Whilst the former spent
their leisure in recollections of war and love, or in the congenial
pastimes of the field and the chase, the conversation of the
latter was often warped towards scholastic disputation, or tainted
by classic pedantry. Such manners have often been described, and
their interest has long passed away; but in a society where female
influence prevailed, and in an age when female intellect was fruitful
in prodigies, it may be well to see what were the graces expected
from a palace-dame.[*31]
[Footnote *31: Concerning Elisabetta Gonzaga. Cf. LUZIO E
RENIER, _Mantova e Urbino, Isabella d'Este, ed Elisabetta
Gonzaga_ (Torino, 1893).]
At the head of a string of common-place endowments we find a noble
bearing, an avoidance of affectation, a natural grace in every
action. Beauty is considered as most desirable, not indispensable;
and its improvement by such artificial means as painting and
enamelling the face, extirpating hairs on the eyebrows or forehead,
is derided. White teeth and hands are fully appreciated, but
their frequent display is censured. A neat _chaussure_ is lauded,
especially when veiled by long draperies. In short, natural elegance
and the absence of artifice are primary qualifications. A high-born
lady must be circumspect even beyond suspicion, avoiding ill-timed
familiarity, and all freedom of language verging upon licence; but
when casually exposed to discussions tending to pruriency, a modest
blush would be becoming, whilst shrinking or prudery might expose her
to sneers. Willingly to listen to or repeat slander of her own sex
is a fatal error, which will always be harshly construed by men. Her
accomplishments and amusements should ever be selected with feminine
delicacy, verging upon timidity; her dress chosen in tasteful
reference to what is most becoming, but with apparent absence of
study. In conversing with men she should be frank, affable, and
lively; but modest, staid, and self-possessed, with a nice observance
of tact and decorum. Noisy hilarity, a hoyden address, egotism,
prolixity, and the unseasonable combination of serious with ludicrous
topics are equally objectionable, but most of all affectation. Yet
she ought to be witty, capable of varied conversation in literature,
music, and painting, skilled in dancing and festive games. Nor should
that of a good housewife be wanting to her other qualities. In short,
the theory of a paragon lady of the 1500 might equally suit for one
of the present day. We should come to a very different conclusion
as to her real character, were we to test it by some passages of
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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