It seems fitting that the boldest and highest flight of Gothic
architecture should have been attempted in a place with such traditions.
Alas! The result proved that it is best not to be overbold. The
Cathedral of St. Pierre was and is a magnificent fragment, for it was
never finished. When the noble and beautiful spire fell, five years
after its completion, on Ascension Day, 1573, it was said that with it
fell the pointed style in France.
We reached the Cathedral of Beauvais in time to witness a procession in
honor of the Virgin’s Assumption. It was pleasant to see the townspeople
thus making active use of their “enormous, though ill-proportioned and
yet magnificent, church.”
We entered by the south transept, which is most beautiful and
impressive. Standing before it, one does not see that the nave is
wanting; one only admires a vast structure, richly carved. We found the
choir made beautifully light and bright by its three lofty stories of
stained glass. The building gives one no sense of repose, for in the
desire to realize the vast height the eye constantly follows the course
of the colossal piers as they rise up, up, up in the air. Alas! various
scaffoldings erected in the interior to strengthen weak parts give one a
feeling of insecurity.
From certain points of view, the Cathedral of Beauvais looks like a
stranded monster of the past. Its vast height is exaggerated by the lack
of a nave, making it appear high-shouldered and out of proportion. Yet
other views of it are so beautiful and so impressive that we felt well
repaid for our trip.
Before the year 1914 we thought of Rheims Cathedral as the most
beautiful of the great sister churches of France. Now we think of her as
of a loved one no longer living. We cannot speak her name without
sorrow, for the crown of martyrdom has been added to her other glories.
We were so anxious to see as much as possible of the cathedral that we
took rooms in the hotel opposite it. From our windows we looked directly
out at the wonderful façade. There was one terrible drawback, however,
to our proximity to the cathedral. We were awakened at about five in the
morning by a loud and persistent ringing of the bells of the great
church. The repetition of the same tone over and over again, several
hundred times, drove Darby almost to distraction. Later we learned that
it had been the custom to ring this tocsin at this time for four or five
hundred years! What a comment on the industry of the place, and indeed
of the French people generally!
We viewed the building from many points, noting the wonderful way in
which the beautiful features of the structure echo from one part to
another till they reach the highest pinnacle and vanish into the
heavens, as the great church itself has now vanished, all but a few
ruins. Perhaps it has again taken shape there. May we not hope to see
its image, etherealized, in the Celestial City?
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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