With gold going always higher, the price of everything soared in the
’Sixties, as in the present war. The sad part of it was that they did
not come down until years afterward. The highest point reached by gold
was three hundred, but, although it dropped later, prices did not. They
were so sensitive as to respond instantly to any rise, but were entirely
unaffected by a fall of the precious metal. This seemed to me very
unfair. With occasional help from my mother, I had bought my own clothes
after reaching the age of fifteen, when I was given an allowance for
dress.
It was indeed a problem for the girls of those days to dress suitably,
when everything was so dear. Some of my friends bought braid and made
their own straw hats. The price of kid gloves—even the short ones then
usually worn—was so high that certain girls with skilful fingers made
their own. We also made our own undersleeves and even a few linen
collars. The enormous hoops of this period required a large amount of
material for the skirts of gowns, especially as these were not gored,
the entire fullness being gathered or plaited at the waist-line. When
certain girls first appeared at the Assemblies, it was said that their
skirts were six yards in circumference! Our hoops were not quite so
large as this, but they were terrific in size, especially for evening
dress. For a lady to enter an omnibus at that time was no easy matter.
Fortunately, our wire cages were very light and elastic. You had to be
very careful, however, when you sat down in a crowded car, to pull up
the hoop behind, as otherwise it would stick straight out in front! At
one time these great bird-cages were arranged so that they teetered back
and forth as you moved along. The skirts, which were long, were then
looped up gracefully in scallops, when you walked abroad, showing your
balmoral, or ornamental petticoat of woolen cloth. The balmorals were
often pretty, and did prevent our skirts from trailing in the gutter.
They were much more economical, also, than the starched white skirts
which preceded them.
But, oh, how sad it was when each succeeding year brought an expansion
in the circumference of our gowns, obliging us to discard these before
they were half worn out! It is my firm belief that the persons who set
the fashions purposely change them in such a way as to promote as much
as possible the casting away of half-worn garments and the purchase of
new ones.
Fortunately, there were ingenious dressmakers in the ’Sixties who could
do wonders in the way of combination, a fine new dress coming out of two
old ones. The fashion of making evening dresses of tarlatan and similar
diaphanous materials enabled young girls to have a number of gowns for a
relatively small price. True, many layers of the stuff were
necessary—but the construction, with a little help from the dressmaker,
was easy, thus lessening the expense of labor. You can take grand large
stitches in tarlatan and they will not show!
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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