We entered the gates at the same moment as an old grey-beard, tottering
on his staff, wan and weary, worn out with the long journey on foot from
a distant part of Russia, so feeble that nothing but the intoxication of
fanaticism could have carried him on to its end. Inside the gates were
more beggars, but these were apparently collectors for the monastery,
for I noticed that a reverend brother was going his rounds among them,
peering into the contents of the little tin plates to see that there
should be no alienation of alms for private purposes. I felt rather
indignant at this, but it occurred to me afterwards that the idea might
be simply to pool all the receipts, that the fraternity of beggars might
all share and share alike.
Swiftly a serving brother laid hold of us; he was half, if not wholly,
an idiot, and having an impediment in his speech, promised to be very
troublesome; but a jolly little monk coming up delivered us from our
tormentor and sent him about his business. He invited us into his cell
and offered to act as our cicerone. His humble home was tiny and neat
and scrupulously clean—one might have eaten off the floor. In one corner
before the ikona (sacred image), a little lamp was burning. His furniture
consisted of a white sofa-bed, two chairs and a cupboard. The little
window, on the sill of which he had the luxury of a sweet-scented verbena
and a pot of mignonette—one of those touches of poetry which make the
whole world akin—looked out upon a very pretty view of the monastery
garden fringed by the woods beyond.
The dear little man made us very welcome, and gave us each a rude print
of St. Sergius as a remembrance of the monk Vaccian and of the Troitzkaia
Lavra. He made me write down his name in my pocket-book, and then I must
write mine for him. To my amazement, for I had written it in the Russian
character, he had to spell it painfully, letter by letter. Print he could
read fairly well, and of course the old Slavonic script of the liturgies.
But writing, and the reading of the written character, were beyond his
capabilities. Indeed, during the seven hours that I spent with him and
his brethren, I was continually being struck by the proofs of the most
crass and darkest ignorance. Beyond the four walls of their convent they
knew nothing, absolutely nothing. One of them asked me whether England
was not supplied with gold by Russia. When I alluded to California and
Australia, they had never heard of either. They knew that there was
a place called America, and another quite unimportant place called
India, but what they were, to whom they belonged, or by whom they were
peopled—that was a blank.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
Reviews
Reviews
No reviews yet
Be the first to share your thoughts on this work.
Elsewhere in the archive
Join the Discussion
Join the discussion
Sign in to leave a comment or review.
Sign InorCreate an account