Sunday was a great day, when the little street and the _plage_ were quite
alive with holiday folk who flocked in from the neighbouring farms and
villages to see the fine people from Paris. It was a very picturesque
crowd. Of course the sailor-men were all dressed in their best blue
cloth, with their red knitted woollen caps throwing a tassel jauntily on
one side. The well-to-do farmers’ wives and daughters were very smart.
Striped petticoats coming down a little above the ankle, showing a neat
little pair of wooden sabots, or even leather shoes; black-silk aprons;
white fichus folded over their breasts; upon their heads the old, high
twelfth-century caps, trimmed with lace, which our ladies said was
beautiful, handed down from mother to daughter for generations.
A few years ago I was at Trouville once more upon a Sunday. Alas! the old
costumes were no longer there. The present generation of farmers’ wives
were all garbed and hatted in imitation of Paris fashions. It was too
sad! They were a fine, strapping, healthy race of women, with beautiful
skins and cheeks as rosy as the apples of their own orchards. Some of the
girls were very handsome, sweet and modest-looking; rather shy of the
foreigners. It may be said that I was not of an age to judge, but I was a
long-eared little pitcher, and I heard what my elders said. The men were
not so picturesquely attired, but there was a touch of local character
about their get-up also.
A great ally of ours was a certain old Monsieur Pommier (I don’t suppose
he was more than forty, but to us he seemed a Methuselah), who always
came to see us dressed in his Sunday best. A brown coat as stiff as iron,
and as uncomfortable as a strait waistcoat, with a ridiculous little pair
of tails about six inches long sticking out behind almost at right angles
to his waist; a phenomenally high collar reaching to his ears, a tall
stock above a flowered white waistcoat; on his reddish, close-cropped
head a black beaver hat, brushed the wrong way; in his hand a stick with
the thick end downwards, held by a leathern thong at the small end; tiny
side-whiskers, and a face and nose shining from recent soapsuds. He was
the type of the prosperous Normandy farmers and cider-makers of his
day. If they were proverbially a close-fisted race, they knew how to be
hospitable, and there was an old-world courtesy which pierced through
their roughness and was most attractive. To us they were very kindly, and
the memory of them is still pleasant.
It was a motley crowd that came to mix with the grand ladies, the
dandies, the _nounous_, the little bare-legged children making
sand-castles, watching an itinerant Polichinelle or scrambling about
the mussel-clad Roches Noires under the careful eyes of governesses and
tutors.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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