Men's Sewed Straw Hats: Report of the United Stated Tariff Commission to the President of the United States (1926)United States Tariff Commission
General
Men's Sewed Straw Hats: Report of the United Stated Tariff Commission to the President of the United States (1926)
United States Tariff Commission
Hats; Straw industries
With respect to hats, some of the unfinished bodies, usually leghorns,
are made by women in their homes. But men's sewed straw hats, the
subject of this investigation, are produced in factories or in small
workshops. The latter generally operate on a contract basis for the
larger manufacturers or shippers. The workshops which own their own
equipment are organized to produce from 25 to 200 dozen sewed hats per
week. In the making of the shell or body of the hat the contractors
are paid on the basis of the number delivered to and accepted by the
principal. The contractors furnish their own sewing cotton, gelatin,
and other materials, except braid, used in making the shells or bodies
of the hats. The trimming of straw hats is also to some extent performed
on a contract basis.
The establishments visited in England generally perform all the
operations of making and trimming hats in their own establishments,
although at times "outworkers" are employed.
_Working hours and wages._--The labor employed in the manufacture of
sewed straw hats is well organized in both Italy and England. The rates
of wages and hours of labor, both of factory workers and of employees
of contractors, are determined by collective bargaining. A minimum wage
scale for both pieceworkers and timeworkers became effective in Italy
October 27, 1924. The labor of women and children in Italy is limited to
48 hours per week (decree of March 15, 1923). The employment of children
under 12 years of age in shops and factories is prohibited.
COSTS OF PRODUCTION
_Methods of obtaining cost data._--Costs of the domestic Italian and
English hats were obtained by representatives of the commission. In the
United States they were given access to the books and records of the
manufacturers. Domestic costs of materials, labor, and overhead are
based on actual records.
In both Italy and England representatives of the commission were given
access to manufacturers' books showing estimates of their costs. The
estimates of material and labor costs were verified from original
records. Estimates of general administrative and factory expense were
expressed as percentages of the combined cost of labor and materials or
of sales. Access to records from which the latter estimates could be
verified was not permitted.
DESCRIPTION OF COST ITEMS
_Material._--Material includes costs of braid, of bleaching, and of
trimming materials and sundries, and also the cartons in which the hats
are packed.
_Labor._--The amount charged to the individual hat for labor includes
all labor costs connected with its manufacture. The amount of direct
labor on each hat was first determined. The indirect labor charge for
each hat was determined by applying to its direct labor charge the
percentage which total indirect labor for the factory bore to the total
direct labor.
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