II. ACROSS THE PLATEAUS 22 III. THE CAPITAL 46 IV. THE VALLEY OF ANAHUAC 74 V. THE TROPICS 90 VI. A GLIMPSE OF THE ORIENTAL IN THE OCCIDENT 111 VII. THE ISTHMUS OF TEHUANTEPEC 128 VIII. IN THE FOOTSTEPS OF THE ANCIENTS 144 IX. WOMAN AND HER SPHERE 162 X. THE PEON 183 XI. CUSTOMS AND CHARACTERISTICS 201 XII. HOLIDAYS AND HOLY-DAYS 225 XIII. A TRANSPLANTED SPORT 243 XIV. EDUCATION AND THE ARTS 257 XV. MINES AND MINING 274 XVI. RAILWAYS AND THEIR INFLUENCE 290 XVII. RELIGIOUS FORCES 308 XVIII. PASSING OF THE LAWLESS 328 XIX. THE STORY OF THE REPUBLIC 343 XX. THE GUIDING HAND 369 XXI. THE REVOLUTION OF 1910 396 XXII. THE SIERRAS AND BEYOND 415 XXIII. THE RUINED CITIES OF YUCATAN 438 XXIV. THE PRESENT AND THE FUTURE 456 APPENDICES 479 INDEX 485 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS PAGE A BELLE OF TEHUANTEPEC (_See page 180_) _Frontispiece_ SNOW-CAPPED POPOCATAPETL 4 GENERAL MAP OF MEXICO 6 AN INDIAN MAIDEN 10 “THE LAND OF BURROS AND _SOMBREROS_” 22 MARKET SCENE IN SAN LUIS POTOSI 30 COCK-FIGHTING IN MEXICO 33 THE _MAGUEY_ 41 MAP OF THE VALLEY OF MEXICO 46 THE PATIO OF AN OLD RESIDENCE 48 THE CATHEDRAL 60 A PICTURESQUE PULQUE SHOP 66 THE CALENDAR STONE 77