Where the Roman road between Gaul and Spain here crosses the
Pyrenees, the sunlit side of it upon the Spanish southern slope rises
most gradually towards the mountains, up a great shelving bank, as
it were, miles broad and a whole countryside in length. It rises so
gradually that men marching do not feel the strain, and an army has
almost approached the limit of the ascent before it knows that the
ascent has begun. For all that the shelf of land is lifted high into
the air, and the notch, which is the Pass of Roncesvalles, seems,
as you come on to it from the south, to touch the very plain. There
is, indeed, just before that notch is reached, one little rise of
less than a mile, which no man would take to be the passage of such
mighty hills, so slowly and by so much cunning of nature has he been
introduced to the high places. Here the woods are deep upon either
side, and the last lift of the road goes up through greensward, very
pleasant and cool after the dust of the plains. Before the rearguard,
as the horses of its leaders took this rise, stood the edge of the
saddle, clean marked against the noon sky--a crescent of wild grass
sharply meeting the blue. It was when they had reached this height,
Roland and his companions, that there opened before them the great
sight of the gorge that plunges down, a passage into the Gauls and
the larger land. Very far away to the north, a hazy line like the
sea, framed between two distant mountain sides, was the level of the
French flats and the Landes.
Down the sharp steep, on either side of the profound gorge, vast
beech woods hung, falling in billows of greenery one below the other
in the darker green of beech in August; such is for the solemn forest
which clothes all that dark ravine, and from its unseen profundity
there rises the noise of a torrent. This gulf is Roncesvalles. And
down the western side of the awful valley, drawn like a thread
through the forest, goes the old road, gradually lowering until, ten
miles away and more, it comes to the waterside and to the mouth of
these narrows at last.
By that road was the rearguard to go.
The noon woods in the hot summer weather were nearly silent. There
was some murmur of insects in them, but no twig broke beneath the
steps of a man. There was no hint of the many that watched and spied,
hidden deep in the undergrowth. The captains had loosed their helmets
from their heads, they had hung them on the saddle-bows as the road
went down through the beech woods; the shadows were cool. And the
companies of the rearguard sang in the ease of the descent, and the
drivers on foot were guiding their beasts, for the way was narrow and
precipitous to the right, where the ground sank to the torrent below.
One hour and two hours the column so went forward, with nothing
about it, as it seemed, but the silent mountain tops--the bare rocks
lifting up above the green of the forest, and the noise of the
torrent always nearer and nearer as they went downwards.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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