Miscellaneous Studies; a series of essaysPater, Walter
Philosophy
Miscellaneous Studies; a series of essays
Pater, Walter
Essays
reason of the toil upon it, performed, or exacted from others, by the
monks, through long centuries; Le Morvan, with its distant blue hills
and broken foreground, the vineyards, the patches of woodland, the
roads winding into their cool shadows; though in truth the
fortress-like outline of the monastic church and the sombre hue of its
material lend themselves most readily to the effects of a stormy sky.
By a door, which in the great days opened from a magnificent cloister,
you enter what might seem itself but the ambulatory of a cloister,
superbly vaulted and long and regular, and built of huge stones of a
metallic colour. It is the southern aisle of the nave, a nave of ten
bays, the grandest Romanesque interior in France, [133] perhaps in the
world. In its mortified light the very soul of monasticism, Roman and
half-military, as the completest outcome of a religion of threats,
seems to descend upon one. Monasticism is indeed the product of many
various tendencies of the religious soul, one or another of which may
very properly connect itself with the Pointed style, as we saw in those
lightsome aisles of Pontigny, so expressive of the purity, the lowly
sweetness, of the soul of Bernard. But it is here at Vezelay, in this
iron place, that monasticism in its central, its historically most
significant purpose, presents itself as most completely at home. There
is no triforium. The monotonous cloistral length of wall above the
long-drawn series of stately round arches, is unbroken save by a plain
small window in each bay, placed as high as possible just below the
cornice, as a mere after-thought, you might fancy. Those windows were
probably unglazed, and closed only with wooden shutters as occasion
required. Furnished with the stained glass of the period, they would
have left the place almost in darkness, giving doubtless full effect to
the monkish candle-light in any case needful here. An almost perfect
cradle-roof, tunnel-like from end to end of the long central aisle,
adds by its simplicity of form to the magnificent unity of effect. The
bearing-arches, which span it from bay to bay, being parti-coloured,
with voussures of alternate white and a kind of grey or green, [134]
being also somewhat flat at the keystone, and literally eccentric,
have, at least for English eyes, something of a Saracenic or other
Oriental character. Again, it is as if the architects--the
engineers--who worked here, had seen things undreamt of by other
Romanesque builders, the builders in England and Normandy.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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