We made a little attack on the grammars and reading-books in the course
of the morning, but it was uphill work, and I sat down to the piano,
feeling thoroughly disheartened.
But the music lesson was a great improvement on the English. Bianca had
some taste, and considerable power of execution, and we rose from the
piano better friends. A short walk before lunch was prescribed by the
Marchesa, and soon I was re-threading the mazes of the Pisa streets,
Bianca hobbling slowly and discontentedly at my side on her high heels.
My pupil's one idea with regard to a walk was shops, and now she
announced her intention of buying some _torino_, the sweet paste of
honey and almonds so dear to Italian palates. As we turned into the
narrow street, with its old, old houses and stone arcades, where,
such as they are, the principal shops of Pisa are to be found, I
could not suppress an exclamation of delight at the sight of so much
picturesqueness.
"Ah," said Bianca, not in the least understanding my enthusiasm; "you
should see the shops at Turin, and the great squares, and the glass
arcades, and the wide streets. I have been there twice. Romeo says it
is almost as beautiful as Paris."
The ladies drove out again after lunch in the closed carriage, and
again I set out alone to explore the town. This time I penetrated into
the interior of the cathedral, spending two happy hours in the dusky
richness of the vast building; lost in admiration, now of the soft rich
colour of marble and jasper and painted glass; now of the pictures on
walls, roof, and altar; now of the grandeur of line, the mysterious
effects of light and shadow planned by the cunning brain of a long
departed master.
The weather was much milder than on the previous day, and half a dozen
tourists, with red guide-books, were making a round of inspection of
the buildings on the piazza.
Two of these I recognized with a thrill to be my own compatriots. They
were, to the outward eye, at least, quite uninteresting; a bride and
bridegroom, presumably, of the most commonplace type; but I followed
them about the cathedral with a lingering, wistful glance which I am
sure, had they been conscious of it, would have melted them to pity.
Once, as I was standing before Andrea del Sarto's marvellous St.
Catherine, the pair came up behind me.
"It's like your sister Nellie," said the man.
"Nonsense! Nellie isn't half so fat, and she never did her hair like
that in her life. Why, you wouldn't know Nellie without her fringe,"
answered the woman in a superior way as they moved off to the next
object of interest mentioned in Baedecker.
They were Philistines, no doubt; but I was in no mood to be critical,
and must confess that the sound of their English voices was almost too
much for my self-control.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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