Half a mile or so above the Falls, on either side, the water of the
great stream begins to run more swiftly and in confusion. It descends
with ever-growing speed. It begins chattering and leaping, breaking into
a thousand ripples, throwing up joyful fingers of spray. Sometimes it is
divided by islands and rocks, sometimes the eye can see nothing but a
waste of laughing, springing, foamy waves, turning, crossing, even
seeming to stand for an instant erect, but always borne impetuously
forward like a crowd of triumphant feasters. Sit close down by it, and
you see a fragment of the torrent against the sky, mottled, steely, and
foaming, leaping onward in far-flung criss-cross strands of water.
Perpetually the eye is on the point of descrying a pattern in this
weaving, and perpetually it is cheated by change. In one place part of
the flood plunges over a ledge a few feet high and a quarter of a mile
or so long, in a uniform and stable curve. It gives an impression of
almost military concerted movement, grown suddenly out of confusion. But
it is swiftly lost again in the multitudinous tossing merriment. Here
and there a rock close to the surface is marked by a white wave that
faces backwards and seems to be rushing madly up-stream, but is really
stationary in the headlong charge. But for these signs of reluctance,
the waters seem to fling themselves on with some foreknowledge of their
fate, in an ever wilder frenzy. But it is no Maeterlinckian prescience.
They prove, rather, that Greek belief that the great crashes are
preceded by a louder merriment and a wilder gaiety. Leaping in the
sunlight, careless, entwining, clamorously joyful, the waves riot on
towards the verge.
But there they change. As they turn to the sheer descent, the white and
blue and slate color, in the heart of the Canadian Falls at least, blend
and deepen to a rich, wonderful, luminous green. On the edge of disaster
the river seems to gather herself, to pause, to lift a head noble in
ruin, and then, with a slow grandeur, to plunge into the eternal thunder
and white chaos below. Where the stream runs shallower it is a kind of
violet color, but both violet and green fray and frill to white as they
fall. The mass of water, striking some ever-hidden base of rock, leaps
up the whole two hundred feet again in pinnacles and domes of spray. The
spray falls back into the lower river once more; all but a little that
fines to foam and white mist, which drifts in layers along the air,
graining it, and wanders out on the wind over the trees and gardens and
houses, and so vanishes.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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