Social history; United States -- Social conditions -- 1865-1918
But even in this department how much is left to desire and to do! Our
greatest and richest city is still festering with the corruption that
breeds disease. No board of health seems to have power to sweep its side
streets and dark alleys. Fashion keeps her avenues clean, and neglects
the rest of the vast domain, for which she has her reward in many a
ghastly epidemic. The late Edward Clarke, of Boston,--heaven rest his
soul!--could alarm the whole continent with his threats of the physical
evils which the more perfect education of one sex would entail on both.
But he has left no public protest against the monstrosities of toilet
which deform and mutilate the bodies of women to-day, nor against the
selfish frivolity of life in both sexes, which is equally inimical to
true motherhood and to true fatherhood.
I have seen in fashions of dress and furniture the curious cycle which
my elders foretold, and which it takes, I should think, half a century
to fulfil. My earliest childish remembrance is of the slim dresses which
display as much as is possible of the outlines of the figure. I remember
the _élégantes_ of Gotham walking the one fashionable street of
fifty-five years ago, attired in pelisses of pink or blue satin. A white
satin cloak trimmed with dark fur seemed, even to my childish
observation, a chill costume for a pedestrian in the heart of winter. My
mother's last Paris bonnet, bought probably in 1825, appeared to her
children, twenty years later, such a caricature, that pious hands
destroyed it, in order that we might have no ludicrous association with
the sweet young creature whose death had left us babes in the nursery.
After many fluctuations and oscillations, I have seen modern head-gear
near of kin to the subject of this holocaust. I have seen the old forms
and colors return to popular favor. I have even heard that the very
white satin cloak, which seemed _outré_ to the critic of six years, has
been worn and greatly admired in the recent gay world of Paris. The
return in these cases, it must be said, is not to the identical point of
departure. Progress, according to some thinkers, follows a spiral, and
is neither shut in a circle nor extended in a straight line. The hoops
of our great-grandmothers are not the hoops which we remember to have
seen or worn. Their eelskin dresses are not the model of ours. Still,
the recurrence of the same vein of fancy marks a periodical
approximation to the region or belt of influence in which certain
forgotten possibilities suggest themselves to the seeker of novelty, and
in which the capricious, antithetical fancy delights to crown with honor
all that it found most devoid of beauty a few lustres ago.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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