At the crest of the hill Ingouville has but one street, and (as in all
such situations) the houses which overlook the river have an immense
advantage over those on the other side of the road, whose view they
obstruct, and which present the effect of standing on tip-toe to look
over the opposing roofs. However, there exist here, as elsewhere,
certain servitudes. Some houses standing at the summit have a finer
position or possess legal rights of view which compel their opposite
neighbors to keep their buildings down to a required height. Moreover,
the openings cut in the capricious rock by roads which follow its
declensions and make the ampitheatre habitable, give vistas through
which some estates can see the city, or the river, or the sea. Instead
of rising to an actual peak, the hill ends abruptly in a cliff. At the
end of the street which follows the line of the summit, ravines appear
in which a few villages are clustered (Sainte-Adresse and two or three
other Saint-somethings) together with several creeks which murmur and
flow with the tides of the sea. These half-deserted slopes of Ingouville
form a striking contrast to the terraces of fine villas which overlook
the valley of the Seine. Is the wind on this side too strong for
vegetation? Do the merchants shrink from the cost of terracing it?
However this may be, the traveller approaching Havre on a steamer is
surprised to find a barren coast and tangled gorges to the west of
Ingouville, like a beggar in rags beside a perfumed and sumptuously
apparelled rich man.
In 1829 one of the last houses looking toward the sea, and which in
all probability stands about the centre of the Ingouville to-day, was
called, and perhaps is still called, “the Chalet.” Originally it was a
porter’s lodge with a trim little garden in front of it. The owner of
the villa to which it belonged,--a mansion with park, gardens, aviaries,
hot-houses, and lawns--took a fancy to put the little dwelling more in
keeping with the splendor of his own abode, and he reconstructed it on
the model of an ornamental cottage. He divided this cottage from his own
lawn, which was bordered and set with flower-beds and formed the terrace
of his villa, by a low wall along which he planted a concealing hedge.
Behind the cottage (called, in spite of all his efforts to prevent it,
the Chalet) were the orchards and kitchen gardens of the villa. The
Chalet, without cows or dairy, is separated from the roadway by a wooden
fence whose palings are hidden under a luxuriant hedge. On the other
side of the road the opposite house, subject to a legal privilege, has
a similar hedge and paling, so as to leave an unobstructed view of Havre
to the Chalet.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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