Monumental JavaScheltema, J. F. (Johann Friedrich )
History
Monumental Java
Scheltema, J. F. (Johann Friedrich )
Indonesia -- Antiquities; Java (Indonesia) -- Antiquities; Monuments -- Indonesia -- Java
Often though I went up to forget the cares of exacting duties in happy
holidays on the Diëng, trying the different approaches, the impressions
of my first ascent in October 1885 are freshest in my memory. Starting
from Wonosobo, I preferred to a more direct route the roundabout way via
Temanggoong, spending a day on the road between the twin volcanoes
Soombing and Sindoro, enjoying the views to right and left, every new
turn disclosing new wonders: mountain slopes basking in the warmth which
radiated triumphantly from a sky of dazzling brightness, valleys of
perfect loveliness losing their brilliant hues in the shades of evening
as if a curtain fell between the world left and the world entered. The
following morning early I rode from Temanggoong in a thick mist which,
rolling away before the sun, uncovered a landscape more and more rugged
as I passed Parakan and Ngadirejo, but always more charming, a feast
to the eye. Near Ngadirejo the _chandis_ Perot and Pringapoos claimed
my attention. Built for the worship of Siva, his _sakti_ Doorga and
their eldest son, they offered a sad spectacle of decay, the former
crumbling away in the baneful embrace of a gigantic tamarind, one of
whose branches rose from the midst of the ruin straight up to heaven,
overshadowing Ganesa, the conqueror of obstacles, in his meditations;
the latter holding an image of Siva’s _vahana_ or _nandi_, the bull,
symbol of his creative power, still an object of veneration as the
_boreh_ indicated, the walls of the temple being decorated with splendid
bas-reliefs representing a scene from Javanese history or mythology,
analogous to the rape of the Sabine women.[23] Farther on, surprise
succeeding surprise, lies Joomprit, another delicious spot, sanctified
by a holy grave, at the source of the Progo. The water, gushing forth
from the mouth of a cavern and trickling down its sides, is immediately
lost to sight in a declivity among the ferns. Curious monkeys herd
round, led by their brawny chief, imperious like Hanoman, born from the
wind, swinging through space, commanding the simian army of Sugriva:
they constitute one of the few colonies of sacred apes which form a
living link with the Hindu epoch; that of Gaja Moongkoor on the Diëng
has ceased to exist.
[Illustration: II. _CHANDI_ PRINGAPOOS
(Archaeological Service through Charls and van Es.)]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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